Polyester plates printed on Laser printers

[graficworx]

Thanks for the reply!

Hmm, okay, so you're refraining from using the alcohol sub on the Kompac for the most part. I neglected to mention that I have a Kompac on my Multi 1250. What did you do to "set the Kompac up to run perfect for laser plates"? I don't know if there would necessarily be a difference between how a Kompac runs on an AB Dick v.s. Multi. Thanks again.

You need to adjust the Kompac mounts so you get a good strip on the plate, since the plates are thinner than traditional metal plates, and the Kompac was most likely installed for metal. I ran a stripe about a quarter inch wide or so. Pacific Products has the alcohol-sub I use, its called Stopz-It, product # 25000. They also have a great laser cleaner/etch Laser Clean EX # 15160. They also recently introduced a fountain solution, although I haven't tried it, but I'm going to look into it. They make some really good stuff. Their cyldiner cleaner will remove dried on ink off impression/plate cylinders with very little elbow grease.

Press Room Products

[smeragrafix]

Hey guys,

would like to know if the hp 8150 laserjet can make polyester plates the same way as the 5100.

I require around 15-20 polyester plates a day on my multilith 1962mc offset.
We use poly-plates made on hp 5200...or canon ir400 in india.
Am looking forward to buy a laserjet for inhouse plate making.

Anyone with some good ideas?

Xante, kimosetter, etc. Are not sold or servicable in india and hence out of question / consideration.

Regards,
miheer.

[Tres]

Would you please send your solutions page to me. Thanks
pierson@re-news.com

[GeorgeHB]

@PrintingSupply:
Please send one of your sheets to me at: prepress@star-llc.com. We are trying these plates but not having a lot of luck. They are toning like mad! I'm talking with Jeff from Hurst Chemical, trying to find a way to make them work, but if your help sheet will make it work, I'll once again be a happy prepress guy!
GeorgeHB

[UnlimitedBT]

Hi George. Let me try to help you. What is the history of your printer and which one do you use? HP5000/5100?
I have posted about this before - the printer must be in perfect shape, i.e. Your toner cartridge better off be OEM HP, Fuser must be perfect, transfer roller should be new.
If you have rebuilt / refilled/re-manufactured cartridge - this is first thing you should look at. Non OEM cartridges tend to lay a microscopic layer of toner where in office environment nobody cares but for platemaking it will nightmare no matter what plates or chemicals you use. Also over the years of using this set-up, I have noticed- when it gets cold the toning/framing issue becomes bigger problem. Make sure that printer is in clean, warm room - the cold / chilly air does affect electrostatic copying / printing process, even drum cleaning blade made out of silicone become stiffer and may not clean the drum the way it should causing toner layer on the plate (you may not see it with the naked eye) and toning, picture framing on the press.
I usually replace toner cartridge and fuser trough half of the life cycle to keep the quality up, full disassemble / cleaning of printer 2-3 times a year (including mirrors and lenses inside the laser unit)

[GeorgeHB]

Thanks for the quick reply. We use an HP 5000. I have changed the settings per instructions from SmartPlate support, the printer is in a warm environment, and it was serviced last summer ('11). The only thing that might be an issue is the toner cartridge. It's not OEM. I'll see if I can get one and give it a shot.
George

[UnlimitedBT]

Try Ebay, just make sure you're buying OEM HP sealed product. It had been resourceful for me so far.

[UnlimitedBT]

I was just thinking - there is a way to check if you're having on-press or printer/platemaking issue.
Take an unexposed plate - just out of the box, hang on press and run other side of some spoiled job. You may draw something with permanent Sharpie on the plate just for the heck of it - it will hold for few hundred impressions. If toning/framing shows up - it is chemistry /press if not - it is the way the plate made...
Also you can try this - at the end of the run clean some of non image area with strong solvent - acetone or (automotive)Chock-cleaner, run few dozen of sheets - if cleaned area stays clear of toning - this should indicate that problem created by platemaking...

[Happyprinter]

Years ago we ran a few Smart plates for our Ryobi 3200's using a HP 5000 and they ran pretty well. Like BT said, be sure your using OEM HP.

[hawk]

Hi, I have a ABDICK DPM34HSC polyester platesetter, i want to sell it. It is 2005 and with everything (RIP&DONGLE). it is in perfect and working condition. if anybody is interested call me at
203-606 4319.