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Thread: New guy, AB Dick 360 question(s)

  1. #21
    washingtonmike is offline Junior Member
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    Default Manuals

    Yes, there is the original "Operating Instructions" manual for the 350/360 (chute delivery) which I'll be happy to pdf off for you if you'd like.

    Additionally on ebay you'll find "Troubleshooting Guide & Repair Manual" for the same presses, a lasered publication but with some good stuff in it, usually around $20.

    The complete parts catalog is available in a pdf at AB Dick.

    If you'd like to email off list I could sure use another head to bounce things off. I'm running Baseline polyester plates on an HP 5000 printer. Cheers, Michael
    washingtonmike@mchsi.com

  2. #22
    Ludo_au is offline Junior Member
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    Default Re AB 360 problems.

    Hi Washington Mike
    I have run ab Dick 360s since I was a boy and whilst I don't have one now I think they are one of the best presses for a beginner.
    To begin with, the copper roller you describing is an aquamatic system. Common in ryobis and iteks as well. Simple to operate but not so great on major solids. Some important points firstly you must engage the aquamatic and get it completely inked before you put any fountain soulution into the machine (very important) secondly you must thouroughly wet any plate you put on the machine (electrostatic, paper, plastic or metal). I used to use a spray bottle on a gentle mist give it a good wet then put it on the press. Also I suspect by your plate coming off comment you are using the straight edge clamp which was fine for the old paper plates but not fine for the new laser plates you are using.

  3. #23
    Ludo_au is offline Junior Member
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    Default new guy ab dick 360 questions

    Hi washington mike
    You should invest in a plate punch if you don't have one which will save the plate coming off problem. I als used to spray a bit of that craft store adhesisve apray on the paper and laser plates to get them to stop slipping and get really good registration (nothing will stop them stretching).
    Finally I think the problem you are describing relates to roller pressure. if you plate is remaining clean but the edges of the blanket is getting ink build up then it is probably because you plate does not cover the width pf the plate cylinder and the edges are carrying ink across to the blanket. This is not a major problem on short runs but on long runs it will build up and eventually overwhelm the aquamatic system. Ususl symptoms are ink marks on the side of the paper (you will se it as the stack builds up) and ghosty ink coming in from the sides. If this sounds close let me know and I will tell you how to fix it.
    good luck

  4. #24
    washingtonmike is offline Junior Member
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    Default Many thanks

    Hi Ludo_au: The plate punch has arrived and I'll put it into service in a couple of days. A lot of cleanup was required and I had to fabricate a missing punch for it but it's now serviceable and ready to go. That should correct the plates pulling off the master cylinder though the tail clamp on this particular press could stand being replaced as it's a little out of alignment on the left side. however, I'll give it a try.

    I will definitely try the misting bottle before mounting the plate. Yes, I've always waited on filling the fountain until both the copper and other roller are completely inked. Would you suggest a light misting while in operation, or just let the fountain take care of things?

    Also, there is the matter of the aquamatic lockout latch which by description must do something that the night latch doesn't do but exactly what I don't know. I'm guessing it should be in the down position?

    When etching the plate should the entire plate be etched or just the image area?


    Many thanks again for the continued support. Michael

  5. #25
    Ludo_au is offline Junior Member
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    Default re ab 360 lockout latch

    Hi Mike
    Yes the lock out latch is meant to take the pressure of the top roller at nights. There is a large top oscilating roller down under the fountain rollers It is important to keep pressure of this when not in use because it sits directly down on the top ink form roller so you can't afford to get that roller deformed (you only have two ink form rollers in an AB Dick so you need them to stay the best they can). I found it easiest on a 360 to simply let the pressure off the fountain rollers, apply the ink lock out, and lift the oscilating roller so the end with a hole sits up of the little pin that the hole locates on. I forgot their should be another heavy oscilating roller that you lift up a little and lean it back on the grooves in the arms and it will sit of the small rubber rollers.

  6. #26
    Ludo_au is offline Junior Member
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    Default

    as to the spraying yes spray the whole plate. You can spray areas of the plate lightly with the sprayer as a temporary measure but remember you have no molleton rollers to pick that up like a heidelberg, hamada or multilith so it will take longer for the ink to recover it full "black black" look.
    It is best to let the fountain solution do the job and turn the aquamatic up a bit more.
    Is the ink coming onto your page or is it just coming onto the blanket and the edge of the page?

  7. #27
    washingtonmike is offline Junior Member
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    Default Oscillating Rollers

    Ah yes, I've been lifting the two large oscillating rollers out of socket when not in use. The water oscillating roller (the large grey one at the top) sits in a pair of brackets mounted on the frame when not in use and the ink oscillating roller (the large grey one lower down with the guide pins in its ends) I elevate and sort of lean backward on its pins, and I also turn OFF the form rollers (when I remember to, that is ).

    Okay then, I'll try to remember to use the water lock-out latch as well as the night latch when shutting down. For right now (any maybe for the foreseeable future), I've made up a checklist for both startup and shutdown, this until I get that all into the memory cells and it becomes more automatic. A lot of thingamabobs to take care of isn't there? Michael

  8. #28
    washingtonmike is offline Junior Member
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    Default

    I'll be making another run in the next few days, when I can get back to the project, and will post more as that progresses re: plate/cylinder inking, etc. Thanks again, Michael

  9. #29
    Richard is offline Member
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    Default

    Hi, I recall this machine, with the copper roller. When inking up, ink all the rollers, including the dampening rollers. Engage the water system and get a thin coating of ink on all the rollers first.
    Then put the foutain solution in. Mix the soution as the labal suggests, not more than suggested.
    If you use etch, get the plate wet with that first. Put the water control a little over half to start. This is a non-alcohol dampening system. If it was, then the copper roller would be smooth chrome. The copper roller should be inked up.
    Richard

  10. #30
    urville is offline Junior Member
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    Default

    What is the difference between the AB Dick 360 and the 360 CD?


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