Beyond the normal 'drying' problems that are experienced when using reflex blue, much of the problems originate because of the heavy ink film thickness required to approach book density. Under a controlled evaluation using the Prufbau, it was found that reflex requites TWICE the ink flim as compared to rhodamine red.
The ink films in the pAntone guide are not even close to be equally balanced. Chasing the density of reflex with the coarse and abrasive properties of the alkali blue pigment only compound matters. Many times drying problems perceived are a combination of factors. Scuffing, marking, burnishing, setting and drying issues are the end result.
Going to an imitation, mock reflex blue will help some of these issues. Imitation reflex is normally a duo of pigments, carbazole violet and phthalo blue. This combo will help with the scuffing and marking issues but there is a trade off. Imitation reflex is significantly weaker than true alkali reflex blue. On the average 30-40% less color strength using imitation is the sacrifice. So the gain that has been made with less abrasive pigments is lost due to the fact you must lay extra ink film to get comparable density.
So what to do?
You do need to consult with a qualified ink supplier to formulate you a maximum strength or hybrid type formula. Using highly pigmented ink, with the proper wax content and amounts will help. Also the implementation of hard film forming drying oils will help, like tung oil.
Finding an ink company that will work with you in this day and age probably will be a monumental task, Most will probably tell you to use some off the shelf entity or provide you with a fufu dust compound to add press side.
Search the smaller and mid size ink companies to help with formulating an ideal product. They won't know it, but they will actually be helping themselves by creating a unique product that will have application for many printers.
Just don't let them throw it at you.
D Ink Man