UV inks adhering on metal products.

mx200394

New member
I have been working on a project for the past 3 months with trying to get UV ink to adhere to metal products for digital printing. Does anyone have advise or recommendations on how to keep a CMYK process ink method adhered to metal?
 
A little more information please . . . what digital press are you using, what metal substrate are you using, whats its intended use . . . . and thats probably just for starters
 
A little more information please . . . what digital press are you using, what metal substrate are you using, whats its intended use . . . . and thats probably just for starters

I am using a prototype printer that can print on metal bottles and plastic cups. I can get the inks to work on plastics no problem because digital UV inks can adhere no problem. With the metal I am dealing with them coated in Themoset which for some reason is too smooth of a surface area to get the inks to adhere.
 
I am using a prototype printer that can print on metal bottles and plastic cups. I can get the inks to work on plastics no problem because digital UV inks can adhere no problem. With the metal I am dealing with them coated in Themoset which for some reason is too smooth of a surface area to get the inks to adhere.

Printing UV on plastics is a common practice but different plastics behave differently. In Dry Offset, it is common to print these cups but the surfaces usually need to be treated. This is usually done with flame treating but some times with corona treating.

Normally surfaces of plastics can be measured with a Dyne test. Some flat sheets of plastic might have enough surface treatment still remaining from the suppliers process. Too much treatment can also be a problem. Over oxidizing the surface can result in a weak bond because an oxidized surface, which might measure high on the Dyne test, is like putting paint on a rusty (oxidized) surface. The flame on a flame treating station can be a "oxidizing" flame or a "reducing" flame. This depends on the ratio of gas to oxygen in the gas/air mixture. Some plastics are sensitive to this ratio.

Sometimes the adhesion will seem to be good but if exposed to wet conditions, the print can fail and come of the surface quite easily. This needs to be checked.

Primers have also been used to improve adhesion.

From what you are saying, it does not seem like you are really printing on metal. Printing on metal is also common but I do not know what is required for the surface conditions.

You say that the metal you are trying to print on has a Thermoset surface. I guess you are talking about some plastic coating. This too needs to have some adequate surface treatment too. Smoothness is probably not the issue, since basically adhesion is mostly a chemical problem.

You need to get some information of the surface conditions of that thermoset coating. Good luck.
 
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Printing UV on plastics is a common practice but different plastics behave differently. In Dry Offset, it is common to print these cups but the surfaces usually need to be treated. This is usually done with flame treating but some times with corona treating.

Normally surfaces of plastics can be measured with a Dyne test. Some flat sheets of plastic might have enough surface treatment still remaining from the suppliers process. Too much treatment can also be a problem. Over oxidizing the surface can result in a weak bond because an oxidized surface, which might measure high on the Dyne test, is like putting paint on a rusty (oxidized) surface. The flame on a flame treating station can be a "oxidizing" flame or a "reducing" flame. This depends on the ratio of gas to oxygen in the gas/air mixture. Some plastics are sensitive to this ratio.

Sometimes the adhesion will seem to be good but if exposed to wet conditions, the print can fail and come of the surface quite easily. This needs to be checked.

Primers have also been used to improve adhesion.

From what you are saying, it does not seem like you are really printing on metal. Printing on metal is also common but I do not know what is required for the surface conditions.

You say that the metal you are trying to print on has a Thermoset surface. I guess you are talking about some plastic coating. This too needs to have some adequate surface treatment too. Smoothness is probably not the issue, since basically adhesion is mostly a chemical problem.

You need to get some information of the surface conditions of that thermoset coating. Good luck.

I can get it to work on any plastic piece. The UV Ink I am using adheres to that no problem at all. Themoset is a lacquer used on metal goods that has a long shelf life and does not break easy like Themoplastic which when cracked will spider web because of the polymers inside of it making an almost glass like look.

Like I said the problem I am having is getting the Polymers in the UV Inks when cured to create a strong bond with the metal that is lacquered with Themoset. I believe the Thermoset on the pieces are a PVC based lacquer. When we do Dyne tests with P2 primeres as well as flame and even Polymer binding agents they yield under 36. We need the Dyne to reach 44 to actually provide a strong adhesion to the products.

Is it normal for people who are printing on metal surfaces to clear coat the piece afterwards to lock in the artwork being printed on?
 
I can get it to work on any plastic piece. The UV Ink I am using adheres to that no problem at all. Themoset is a lacquer used on metal goods that has a long shelf life and does not break easy like Themoplastic which when cracked will spider web because of the polymers inside of it making an almost glass like look.

Like I said the problem I am having is getting the Polymers in the UV Inks when cured to create a strong bond with the metal that is lacquered with Themoset. I believe the Thermoset on the pieces are a PVC based lacquer. When we do Dyne tests with P2 primeres as well as flame and even Polymer binding agents they yield under 36. We need the Dyne to reach 44 to actually provide a strong adhesion to the products.

Is it normal for people who are printing on metal surfaces to clear coat the piece afterwards to lock in the artwork being printed on?

This is a little confusing. If you have a coating on the metal, then IMO, you are not printing on metal. You are printing on the coating. Is the adhesion failure taking the thermoset lacquer off the metal and leaving bare metal?

If the failure is between the lacquer and the ink, then maybe there is something in the lacquer such as plasticizers, that is preventing the adhesion. Maybe you need to talk to the people who know about the chemical properties of the lacquer.

Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
This is a little confusing. If you have a coating on the metal, then IMO, you are not printing on metal. You are printing on the coating. Is the adhesion failure taking the thermoset lacquer off the metal and leaving bare metal?

If the failure is between the lacquer and the ink, then maybe there is something in the lacquer such as plasticizers, that is preventing the adhesion. Maybe you need to talk to the people who know about the chemical properties of the lacquer.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

Any help is much appreciated at this point. I am just at a loss of what to try and have been working at this for about 4 months now. But I guess I am confusing because I really do not know how to get this project to work correctly. I do understand that most UV inks cure into a polymer and they normally adhere to plastic quite well. But with this Themoset coating would there be a chemical I can use to change the Dyne levels from the average of 36 or below to 44 or higher?
 
I have been working on a project for the past 3 months with trying to get UV ink to adhere to metal products for digital printing. Does anyone have advise or recommendations on how to keep a CMYK process ink method adhered to metal?
To print on metals (stainless steel, aluminum, copper, coated metals, etc.), you will need to use UV adhesion promoters. The best promoter for digital printing is the M74F UV adhesion promoter from Boston. It also works very well on acrylics.
 

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