Recent content by Mstrkey

Having the same problem here. For the C60. It's been a month, no black toner. They auto shipped me one yellow.........all my black orders are in limbo and I'm not getting anything. They haven't even shipped yet.

Honestly, it all comes down to volume. It may be far cheaper per copy or far more expensive per copy on the new machine if you take your average volume into account. CHeck what xerox will charge for service on the older machine and it's been a dependable unit it may be worth keeping for a...

Has anyone ever managed to get a decent perf on lighter bond/carbonless with this machine? I'm looking at the perf wheels. They're both so darn thick and they penetrate so far into the platen groove that the perf holes are "stretched" open. I can't believe a machine like this is able to...

So I have this old Morgana FSN I use for numbering various small runs of forms and such. When I fist purchased it used, about two years ago it had some problems with a burned out PCB. I ordered up a new factory board and harness for it which fixed my problem. Now, about two years later I'm...

Well I have a new issue. I can UV coat one side of any stock without issue. The reverse side is perfectly clean, no problems. However, when I coat the second side.....the first side is now partially wet again and not fully hardened. This seems impossible to me. At first I thought I was...

crushing the spine crushing the spine You can easily just cut a stack of scrap paper that's thicker than the difference between the spine of the book(s) and the cut egde. Just slide it under your cutter clamp on each cut. You can tape the stack of paper together for easier handling. So...

I think you may be right. Today we had some hotter and more humid weather and I had a job sitting out for a couple of days, printed but waiting to be cut. I noticed the dust seemed to be reduced. I think I may have to try and order a few different types of stock to experiment.

dust dust I understand that but not every job needs a bleed. For example, business cards on plain white card with a white background. I shouldn't need to put a bleed on a simple job like that normally. I only do it now to keep it clean. I never had to do that before. :/

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to try a few of these things on my next job and get back to you. :)

hmmm hmmm Well when I look at the foot, the groove is pretty tight. Of course that's at the very bottom, there may be some skew as it goes up and down. It is a pretty old machine so that's not totally out of reason. I'l have to look a little closer and see. As for Tungsten carbide...

With all 4 of my blades, yes. I can get slightly better results with some types of stock but it's pretty much always there.

I bought a PP&E-480 offline UV coating machine about two years ago. A very simple machine to run and I was pleased with it. I don't use it terribly often but lately I've noticed when I attempt to coat two sides of a project I'm getting a lot of scratches on the first side I coated(bottom)...

Another local shop in my town bought some brand of China knock off brand cutter. The name escapes me right now. The frame literally broke on their first cut. It was basically useless after that. I would stick with the more expensive brand name machines. :/

I know this thread is old, but just a recap. The problem still persists. Blade angle adjusted, blades re-sharpened by a different company on some serious equipment. No real change at all. I'm running everything oversized so I can cut off the excess around the edges. This is the only way I...

Hmmm. I've been getting the blades sharpened regularly as always but I have been cutting a lot more high gloss and UV coated card stock than usual. Perhaps they've just gotten too dull a lot quicker than usual? I tried cutting some basic business cards on the opposite side of the blade...