Recent content by onwsk8r

+1 for the hydraulic cutter solution - that tends to work pretty well. If you don't have a hydraulic cutter, just set a case of paper on them overnight. It won't do much, but it will help a bit. Small booklet makers don't do a very good job of getting books to lay flat (with the exception of...

With digital printers, you will, in a sense, get what you pay for. If you don't want to spend six figures, there will be a trade-off. The question is "what do you want to trade?" I would trade registration because that's a workable issue. If the printer consistently jams with certain types of...

We don't use Absolute Colorimetric. The environment is fine and we have a maintenance agreement. There is no visible background scatter on the plate when it's printed, or on other things we print. We generally scrub the plates (for runs longer than, say, 1M) with digital plate cleaner, which...

Alright experts, blow me out of the water. Prove to me that, at age 27, I'm a noob. It's a Ricoh 900. It can print plates up to like 300 line screen or something with the Fiery Pro Printer package. Yeah, nobody believes that. When we get metal plates, everything on our Multi 1650 works like a...

+1 for printing on a gloss stock. Regular offset ink looks plenty glossy on gloss stock.

Hey Darin, I don't have the hookup that you're looking for, but ime, you need to look at school districts and tech colleges. Loads of tech schools in smaller towns are dumping linotypes, etc.

+1 for Dan Roll (Daniel TRoll? Is that a joke?). You printers need to understand there's a lot more light than just the visual light. Roy G Biv turns in his grave every time someone doesn't understand that a light puts out light at a wide range of frequencies. Sorry. I'm here all night. Your...

Y'know, Gordo, that absolutely seems like the type of thing that iPhone would have an app for and Android would not.

I've run into bland results using cheap inks. It's worth the extra for good ink. Also it doesn't keep well. The other thing is that the press has to be SPOTLESS when you put the ink in or it won't come out right (silver more so than gold). Paper also makes a difference.. Pull out your Pantone...

+1 for Synaps on a 700 with those settings.. I almost got fired for ordering it (because of the cost), but we went through a ton of it after I did. You should also check out Papertyger by Neenah.. Runs the same but it's cheaper. And harder to find - no Xpedx or PaperPlus last I checked...

Well, it's about time to put away the stone and stick this form in the coffin... (anybody? Get out the gauge pin?) It's one thing to shoot a portrait, quite another to shoot a model, but I always preferred to shoot a plate. Gang up all the artwork and shoot it. Unless you have a DI press - then...

Some of them are nightmares.. Veramax and Cone Color are both good. Now THAT was a plug :) When I'm dealing with picky art people that "need" genuine Epson ink, I usually just lie and tell them we run genuine ink. Then they see their first print from me and proclaim that it's OBVIOUS this was...

When you do a nozzle check it prints the amount of ml of ink used between now and the previous nozzle check

Print a nozzle check pattern before you print and then another after you print. If you're having the same problem as me, the two will be different although not necessarily one being better or worse than the other. My solution is a head cleaning, which I can afford because I use Color Cone ink...

There isn't really an easy way :) just the regular more-you-do-it-the-quicker-it-gets method. I've found that besides cleaning the blade, if I clean the pad on the left (which is NOT the cleaning pad), spray with Windex, and pat dry, I can clean up almost any banding problems in a quick hurry...