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You will need to use inkjet envelopes to get good saturation on some colors. Digi-M envelopes from Western State are one of several. Digi-M Inkjet Envelopes | WSEL

Munken Polar seems to have unusually high bulk for 300 GSM. 13.3 caliper compared to around 11-12 for most. It likely thinks there is a double.

What are your current click rates?

The continuously variable standard in color.

Epson is a good machine. Ink was a bit expensive. Check out Duplicator Source. He may have a used one to get you started.

I was referring to their ComColor inkjet printer line. Their duplicators are good. Duplicators are sold by Riso, Duplo, and Ricoh.

Stay away from Riso. The quality isn't there and the ink is also too expensive for print for pay. Aftermarket inks can bring the cost down, but the quality is only adequate for transactional printing.

I like the Enterprise machines, but last I checked the ink was very expensive for a print for pay application.

If you are wanting to go 100% digital, then inkjet is priceless. One recommended addition is the Kyocera 15000c. You are limited to uncoated papers, but it delivers very-near-offset quality printing. It is an ideal machine to replace offset, especially for all of the spot color work you...

Wholesale Sign Guy is in Omaha. Prices were good for screen. Digital not so good. Merged with another shop now so don't know anymore.

Try The Wholesale Sign Guy | Sign Company

Flatbed UV printer with rotary attachment. 360° Rotary Printing | LogoJET

At what point in the process?

Adding opaque white to the mix has always worked out well for us. If the mix calls for white, substitute opaque white. If it doesn't, up to 5% in the mix can bring your color back. 5% being for darker material. Kraft 2%-3%.

Do you have a Fiery?

Then I would lean toward heat, perhaps excessive, combined with the crappy paper they have been delivering that last few years. I really have to crank magnification to compensate for shrinkage. I don't get wrinkles or creasing with the belt fuser on the Ricoh.

What is the composition of the rich black? You can get too much toner on the sheet. When the first side fuses it shrinks and pulls the sheet into a slight pucker, then when it goes through the fuser on the second side it creases. I never go above 200%. 40-30-30-100

I'm sure it's near the lead end. Don't remember which side it uses for registration, though I think it was the non-op side. It was usually a solid with straight edge. Even a 3/4" square could do it if in the right spot. Do you have a media option for preprinted? That can alter the sensitivity...

I had a similar issue on a Konica. It's usually one particular element that it sees. I could often get around it by running the job 180 so it's looking at a different area on the sheet.

We removed #2. It's either approved and we print, or it's not approved and they see another proof.