Canon C910 Series Calibration Question

[famerdave]

Hello,

I've got a Canon C650 and a Canon C710 and I've been told multiple things by multiple people at Canon and in the Fiery color calibration notes.

When printing from Command Workstation or using the driver, do the automated calibrations in "Auto Gradiation Adjustment" affect Color output at all?

(See: Automatic Gradation Adjustment)

Basically, what I'm asking is, which calibration takes priority? Should I stop doing the built in Canon calibrations, and only calibrate from within Command Workstation? What is the correct way to calibrate from printing?

One service rep told me the Auto gradation only affects copies, or if I had a built-in printer board, but because I have the Fiery, it overrules all of that. Another service told me that the auto gradation is the entire machine, and that the Fiery calibrates on top of that. Meaning if you forget to run the auto before you do a calibration, it could be off.

 

[TJPrinter]

You should perform the Auto Gradation first to get the machine in a stable know condition. Then perform your color calibration from the Fiery using your ES2000. Be sure you perform the Auto Gradation on all the sets of paper weights "Thin 1, Plain 1, Plain 2 or Heavy 1 to Heavy 6/Uncoated that has the same whiteness of the Hammermill Color Copy Digital (28lb. (105 g/m2)) and that is already registered as paper to adjust. Custom paper type equivalent to the above basis weight/finish/whiteness and already registered as paper to adjust."

I spent days and hours trying to solve a problem with black text printing too heavy on cover stock and this was with the assistance of Canon and a specialist from EFI. I finally figured it out myself and the problem was that the Auto Gradation needed to be performed on the heavier stocks. So the Auto Gradation performed on the machine will effect more than just your color accuracy.

 

[Sertech]

The auto gradation calibrates the machine. Fiery calibration calibrates the fiery to what the machine prints. Technically, if you want to do it right, you start by reseting shading adjustments and initializing when doing auto gradation. This sets everything back to a start point. I've seen colors get very strange if you don't initialize when doing auto gradation. The recommended way is to reset those, do auto gradation, then do shading, then auto gradation a second time. Then do color correction, then you calibrate the fiery. I could get even deeper into the weeds, since the imagepress uses Hammermill 28lb as calibration media, technically whatever you are using, if it isn't Hammermill, should be set up as the calibration media. The machine will actually check what you are using against the Hammermill and adjust accordingly