Recent content by john beniston

Well it's bi-passed itself now and you need an electrician. You will just have to put up with it for the day or until you get one over there. Years ago they had an emergency manual lift, you just stuck a handle in the appropriate orifice and a couple of cranks the delivery board was up. That was...

As we have said many times in the past Eric. The inker is just not up to par and you know my views on that contraption called an ink ductor. I still maintain that a single plate inking roller, format sized should ink the plate and deposit an exactly predictable ink film to all areas of it, no...

The press has cooled rollers and duct and these are set at 18c. Rollers surfaces run at 19-20c when moving. Blanket surface was 36c when the plate was at 34c. Any thoughts? The temperatures above seem to be a bit on the cold side, Have you thought that perhaps you are too cold at the start...

There is a small motor that drives the gripper opening cam in the perfector get it checked by a man Roland tech, the etched marks on the cam surface have to a specific distance apart. It could be that this motor is not properly tightened down, or that the cam is not being rotated to the set...

You should always run from the lowest area coverage (black) to the highest(yellow) Trapping will be an issue, you will be printing cyan over yellow and magenta over yellow and cyan over magenta. I do not think that the secondary pigment colours red, green, blue, will be anywhere close to where...

don't really understand your problem are you saying that the screens from 25% to 80% are printing as a solid?. A 25% dot printing solid would be indicating something disastrous or catastrophic had happened on press. There is no way a press, even a HD Speedmaster 72 could print a 25% dot as a...

Is that the "Toronto Argos" Gord

What a very depressing picture you paint. I guess there's no hope at all for those of us who are even older than you.

Not a great idea. By the time you buy the rewinder and pay someone to rewind the cloths and then put up with the possible inferior performance you might just as well buy new ones. You can buy cloths already impregnated with blanket wash. Why don't you work out the ROI on that method to see if it...

I agree with Gordo, choke the reverse and print it first then print the Metallic.

Any ink should dry within a reasonable time frame. Check the Ph of your dampening fluid.(in the tank on the press) Get the Ph of the paper tested. Get the ink manufacturer involved he can surely help you with the paper Ph and have the inks adjusted as necessary so that they work with this...

I think you should make contact with Flint Inks and find out how much "drier" they mixed into the batch of ink you are using. Oxidative drying does cause heat to be generated but as hot as you describe, definitely not. Does 'airing' the product out help you. Getting the heat away from it should...

That is an unusual machine. I would call Manroland and find out if they have a book for you. It was never a very successful machine and you might have a hard time getting information about it. It sounds like a sensor problem but I am not an electrician.

Sure, go right ahead. It will be interesting to see what the answers contain don't you think. So far as I can tell right now it's about 50/50 regarding who and who was not involved on the process to decide on which or what press to purchase. How do people who know nothing about printing, the...

The only thing i can think of is that roller cooling might be a problem with the black down last. You will have to reset all the roller temperatures if you 're using different temp's for each colour. If you are using max black or GCR separations then black down last might well be preferable. The...