Recent content by SteveSuffRIT

The middle photo is NOT hot foil leaf stamp. When you zoom in on the photo, you can still see the paper texture. The dies and pressure would flatten those areas. I agree it looks like gold thermography.

Try to keep the paper grain direction parallel with the backbone or spine. Saddle stitched should be fine because paper is somewhat free to move a little. Hotmelt perfect bound is "locked" in.

Gordo's website does a fine job of explaining the difference. Brightness is just how much blue light is being reflected. It's an optical property. Printers care more about how it runs, no feeder trips in sheetfed, no web breaks, no, no jams (digital cutsheet).

Paper has both physical and optical properties. The physical one's effect functionality, runnability, and printability. These are things important to the printer because they effect productivity and profitability. The optical properties are about appearance, and more important to the customer...

I had some data from newspaper, but that was 37lb (24x36"), .002 mil paper. Looking for an industry benchmark, how many per n/100 rolls? Web breaks do occur!

Hello PrintPlanet, I was wondering if any of the heatset web offset printers can provide any stats on % web breaks? Using older Butler zero speed vertical festoon splicers. Better still, how long are you down before you restart saving and how many feet did that take? Most common basis weight is...

If you number the samples in your photo from left to right, 1-6, there are 3 close pairs. 1 & 5 yellow 2 & 6 magenta 3 & 4 blue Can you provide a Delta E (DE, dE) for those pairs?

The defect you show in the photo is a long vertical streak? Is it visible prior to printing, perhaps as a gloss difference? If you cut the sheet down so you can feed it through rotated 90 degree, is streak still there in the same orientation (machine caused) or did it also move (paper caused)?

Can you provide close up photos, without glare, of good vs bad?

Most modern newspaper press use web offset (cold-set) lithography. The ink transfer from the plate (metal) to the blanket (rubber) then to the paper. If the rubber blanket is damaged, sunken inward, it will not transfer ink from plate or to paper. This is often called a smash or ding.

Whatever method is used, always note the version of the formula fan guide. Over the years, there has been revisions/changes. Mixing the correct formula recipe is no quarantine of a close color match (Delta E) mostly because of the substrate.

Search previous posts about this same topic. Need thick ink film to get opacity. Multiple passes, dry trap, flexo relief plate, UV, silver base, screen print, foil stamp, etc.

To be precise, UV inks don't "dry", they cure. How did you evaluate UV Cure? Physical rub test, Chemical resistance. Are UV lights guarded/shielded so no light (radiation) is striking or "Flashing" the plate and curing there? Dry-up/catchup, tinting/toning, scumming/sensitivity all look...

Ask your vendor's (ink, paper, device) if they profile for you as a free service?

You didn't mention what the specific quality issue is? Image sharpness from poor focus? Loose fit in press plate clamp?