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Wow, and our bosses wonder why we sometimes chase colour to match previously printed jobs or supplied samples! Everyone has there own set of "standard" densities. We also have our standards as well; For coated stocks C- 1.45 M- 1.35 Y- 0.90 K- 1.65 For uncoated C- 1.25 M- 1.15 Y- 0.85 K- 1.45...

We run our roller chill unit at @ 21 degrees Celsius = 72 far. The water tank we also keep at @ 12 degrees. Same with the beers!:D

We use a Baldwin wet cloth system and it works quite well. Our system is about 3 years old so still new, and also allows us to switch between UV wash and Conventional wash and water, having three separate reservoirs. Depending on which of the 10 programs we use, we can use little wash and lots...

We still have not sorted our problem out 100%, and we print on paper.

Where r you located?

PLEASE DO NOT GET ME STARTED!!!!! about feeders! That is for another thead!:mad: lol. Rob

So, did you get this sorted out by anyone, or figure it out on your own? Did you have to change your coating supplier or use a larger roller? We had great success when we started with soft touch, about 2 years ago, but not so much as of late. Who makes a good soft feel coating?

What size are you guys running? What size are you guys running? Wow! I am seriously impressed with the speeds that most of you are posting. I work on a KBA-105, 41", 8 colour with perfector, and the only way we get those times is when we do simple magazine work, where colour is not so much of...

Depending on the reliabily of your press and/or your feeder(helper), I think 2 people are normally good for presses. There are always exceptions to this rule though. Speed normally running, # of jobs a day, wash ups and so on. I run a 8 colour perfecting press, and on good stock and longer runs...

Not always, but.. Not always, but.. I will agree with bearwithme! The writing test no longer applies 100%. Now, having said that, it is definately one test you can do. Not all UV coatings are writeable, and more often than not, those are special uses. So if a jiffy or pen cannot write on it...

Flint ink makes a good UV ink for plastics. It is the 9000 series. Just a thought, which ever ink you go with, make sure your etch and sub is compatible. We have done tests with other UV inks and they either, did not print well or cure well. Cheers, RK

Not that I am aware of. If you mean your printed image is transferring to your blanket, that is a sign that you are not carring enough coating. I'm experienced in anilox coating units though. You need to use a larger BCM roller. What size are you using, if even you are using a anilox system?

Not a good idea Not a good idea It's not a good result when you do this. Any ink: conventional, hybrid and UV - ink should be cured before UV coating them. What could happen will and can be different everytime. The ink will not dry, the coating will not stick/cure, or the coating will cure...

That is why we have stayed with the chameleons rollers. We do many jobs with Kelstar S.E. varnishes, UV and conventional with UV and AQ coatings. Plus add in PMS's and the occassional metallic. BECAUSE presses now adays are magic machines - just ask our " sure we can print that" salespeople...

All great suggestions, let me fill in some blanks. We always have 2 buckets of S.T. on hand for just that purpose, "foaming,air bubbles... whatever". We were given a heads up about that common problem. It's not so much of a problem with Harris & Bruno anilox roller system. We change the blades...

Areyou still haveing rough UV coating? Is the print conventional or UV? And finally, what size of powder, coated or uncoated?Curious? We don't have such problems (although coating inline), but we use a Varn powder R-27.

We have been using only small 5 gallon bucket, so stirrng is not an issue- we use a industrial mixer to start. The coating blankets that we used, are the same for every other coating job- UV,AQ,Special. Terribly perplexed.

We have been doing UV printing for the last couple of years with all kinds of different finishes and coatings. Lately we have had a real interest, by clients, in AQ soft touch coating. We had great success early. Super soft, one pass with a 7.5 BCM anilox roller. But recently, its been a...

Water evaporation is the key. Hot air knives up, IR lamps down. Moisture extraction must work well as 67drake suggests. Set the delivery to jog well without movement. Even though the coating dries well, the solid still needs to set if conventional. Not so much a problem with UV. :p

Wow and crap! I just typed out a whole page of mind blowing info. Did a spell check and somehow lost everything. Here's the Coles notes version; 1. Water is key!! A good conductivity area, that we found, was 1100-1900. Do a quick half dump at least if you don't have time for a full, if you get...