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I'm running an HP Latex 360, and it's a very easy machine to use with very good quality. Not sure about costs, but definitely my favorite machine.

It is a much better idea to have the marks on a job to get the best cut possible, but you can cut a job with out the marks on it by reading the edge of the substrate. I'm not sure what the rated accuracy of the machine is with out the marks, but it is possible.

haha!!!!!!

HS boyd makes litho perf/score The die gets mounted to the back cylinder.

I personally would look into flexo for this, it should meet your requirements. Also are you sure this substrate is breathable?

If i had to guess I'd say the ink isn't dry enough to put it back through the press yet. Wind the sheets and let them sit for a bit then try again.

Ha Ha Ha Ha

not sure about what equipment you might want to look into but if your going to look into a CNC machine you are going to have to look into a good air ventilation system because the router is going to make a HUGE mess of your shop. We do plastic board and paper on that type of stuff and it all...

Chemistry free plates are not made for UV. The most I've heard was about 10,000 imps for some and as low as 2,000 for others.(can't remember which ones off the top of my head right now)

How many revolutions are you running with the water form on before you start up? The ecomaxx-t plate develop with alcohol sub, so if they aren't starting up well try adding a little more sub to your fountain solution.

For me this ink seems to work very well on uncoated stock but when we run it on coated stock with out aqueous coating it we get a lot of chalking/drying issues. It seems pretty consistent batch to batch and runs pretty well in a wide water range. Overall not my favorite ink but not really that...

I've seen issues like this when ink tracks back onto the chrome or metering roller on a two chrome water system. The idea is that ink, being hydrophobic, that builds up in the water rollers stops the water from transfering properly. My suggestion would be when you get this problem completely...

I use fuji's Ecomaxx-t plates, and the calabration is done right after its burned by wiping the plate clean with an alcohol sub and water mix to clean the plate, after that you can measure anything you want. If your checking every plate or every set this probably wouldn't work for you but in...

Hey Gordo, did you ever get a chance to run this test? If so is there a link to the results?

one more i found

here are some pdf's on the subject hope you find them helpful jaed

Open the top cover over the plate cyl. then look straight down the side frame where the plate cyl shaft goes in to the side frame and look just to the left of it... now put the ink forms on and off a couple of times and you should see the screw moving from under the cyl. shaft.

is it just a consistant 50% screen or is it a gradient screen? If it was me I would reburn the plates @ 150LPI and see if the problem is still there. 175LPI @ 2400 DPI gives about 170 gray levels which could potentially produce banding. 150LPI @ 2400 DPI gives 257 gray levels and would rule...

My experience with the 234 was a good one, It is easy to run and printed very well. The maint. costs for almost any press are related to how well you take care of it. so if its in good shape and you plan to keep it in good shape it's a nice little machine. BTW what kind of work are you...

it's just a thought but... raising the SID's will affect the image by changing things like the Lab values of the cyan ink, the trap values of all of the overprints and the amount of mechanical dotgain on press. You could try and put the same image side by side with one having slightly higher...