Laminating book covers

[Tradidi]

For my perfect bound book covers, I am laminating single sided, with a Nylon based SuperStick laminate, sourced from the US (link).

The reason I use Nylon based is because the standard laminates tend to be more prone to curling in single sided applications, whereas the Nylon laminates supposedly shrink and stretch the same amount as paper, hence are less likely to curl. So far the result has been reasonable, although there is still some curling noticeable after the book has been used, and the cover bent, for a few days.

However, Nylon laminates are more expensive, especially if I have to import them from overseas. I haven't found a NZ supplier yet.

Is there a better and/or cheaper alternative? I hear some people talk about decurling devices on their laminator. Do they work well, even with cheaper laminates?

Would double sided laminating book covers be a good option? I assume that the inside laminate may melt when it comes to binding with 170 Celsius glue? If it works though, it would still be cheaper for me to laminate both sides with a cheap, local laminate rather than single sided laminating with an expensive imported laminate. Has anyone tried this?

 

[brettbygrave]

I think if you laminate both sides you will have issues with the glue not adhering properly for perfect binding.

 

[pippip]

Have you tried reducing the laminate tension? We get better results when lowering that for single sided. Ours has a decurler and to be honest I leave it off, I find the sheets come out with a bit of a wave to them.

Also I'd generally man handle the curl out of them when emptying the tray and find this helps too.

 

[Tradidi]

I have heard other people recommend lowering the tension, which I agree helps. But I thought the main cause of curl is the fact that paper and standard laminates expend and shrink at different rates, so when a book warms up or cools down and/or the relative humidity changes, the paper will necessarily curl. One book I had printed in Europe by a well know and reputable printing company had a terrible curl to it after it was sent to a different part of Europe with a different climate, it curled almost full circle! The printer was asked to reduce the tension, and it did indeed help; it reduced the problem somewhat, but it did not completely eliminate it.

 

[criccidisk]

I'd stick with Nylon laminates for perfect bound book covers. OPP films exist for single sided applications, but in my experience they are too wonky (curling, delamination, etc) when exposed to varying climates and digital toner output.

 

[Tradidi]

Are there any options that avoid laminating and still fit within a small budget? Printing on coated stock? Synthetic paper? Spray-on coating?

 

[criccidisk]

You totally do not have to laminate a book cover--in fact, most of our customers choose not to. However, the corners are more likely to chip out during the final three-sided trim and if the environment is hot enough, there is a chance that the toner can slightly rub off the book when being read outdoors. I don't think synthetic media would work particularly well for folding or gluing, but I do know certain brands advertise being gluable. You could also UV coat the covers instead of laminating, though in my experience with newer toner presses, UV coating is pretty much a disaster for longevity without being a scratchy mess.

 

[Tradidi]

You totally do not have to laminate a book cover--in fact, most of our customers choose not to.

I am surprised to hear that. I thought laminating book covers is a must to make them more durable.

 

[Stickman42]

You could also UV coat the covers instead of laminating, though in my experience with newer toner presses, UV coating is pretty much a disaster for longevity without being a scratchy mess.

Interesting. We have been UV coating covers printed on Versants for years, and currently on an Iridesse, and have never heard from a client that the coating was a problem down the road. Is there something newer in laser printing that would react differently?

I am surprised to hear that. I thought laminating book covers is a must to make them more durable.

We offer three choices for laminating our laser printed book covers (most of them on 10 pt. C1S): UV coating, film laminating, or.... NONE! The latter is popular among our clients because it is less expensive and there are no durability downsides (to them at least). How durable do your books have to be? I'm not suggesting you put out something inferior, but there is sometimes a direct relationship between cost and quality.

 

[Tradidi]

How durable do your books have to be? I'm not suggesting you put out something inferior, but there is sometimes a direct relationship between cost and quality.

Personally I like books that are not laminated, or at least laminated with a matte finish, but the reason I went with gloss laminate is because I read a lot of online comments saying that gloss laminated covers are more durable and professional, and that most people prefer it that way. I am pleased to hear that there is another side.

We offer three choices for laminating our laser printed book covers (most of them on 10 pt. C1S): UV coating, film laminating, or.... NONE! The latter is popular among our clients because it is less expensive and there are no durability downsides (to them at least).

When customers make that decision for themselves, the responsibility (and extra cost) is on them. But when I as a publisher make that decision, I suspect there will be some people complaining about the cheaper option, and in order to avoid that, the extra cost of the more durable and professional option will be on me.

 

[criccidisk]

Interesting. We have been UV coating covers printed on Versants for years, and currently on an Iridesse, and have never heard from a client that the coating was a problem down the road. Is there something newer in laser printing that would react differently?

Whatever KM did with their toner post-factory-fire absolutely refuses to bond with any UV coating I've tried. I tried two Tec Lighting units, two Duplo units, two Graphic Whizard units, and two outside vendors with top-of-the-line coating equipment (and of course various brands of coating along the way) with no luck. Black regions of the sheet were bleached blue after cooling and magenta/cyan regions of the sheet were insanely brittle with even a dull thumbnail scratch. No amount of IR radiation, UV radiation, or temperature regulation inside the units seemed to do the trick. It is what it is; we just laminate those projects now.