Universal inkjet CTP - for offset, screen and flexo

[elvin_011]

so I a not learning about jetplate, no Kodak Craftsman plate, no special plate, only made-in-china plates, inkjet printer, burn by sunlight, develop by developing machine/processor, or if you dont have you can develop by hand

is it a really cheap ctp?

 

[elvin_011]

just try a new brand ink, but still the same result.. low density..

I think I must try dtg ink, they said it contains latex, so it will has high density and will block lights.

any suggest?

I tied epson's style.. print image on a (developed) plate, heat for about 1 minute. it works, but not satisfied.

 

[OkiTech]

Hi Everyone.
Question to Obormot - Obormot is Russian word from a childhood - are you Russian? Where are you located?
As far as tread topic - I did some experiments in this field myself plus there was similar idea to what Obormot had presented. It was discussed on this or other popular forum.
I am using JetPlate system to make Epson CTP / VIM plates. I had bypassed the developer and finisher pumps and just using heaters with more or less success. Issue is that plates don't last that long especially with halftones.
The idea presented was discussed previously and seemed really interesting. The only what was not mentioned is that it is POSITIVE development. Here the link to other discussion I had mentioned-
Inkjet metal CTP - Color Printing Forum

It is kind of cool - anyone with epson printer with rip, exposure frame and processor can turn it in to CTP. Most of the RIPS can be commanded to print out of 2 channels so density could be increased. There are few tricky spots that I can predict:
#1 - Find a balance point for the amount of ink dispensed. not enough - it will not hold exposure light, too much - ink may leak on the plate and cause quality issues. Pre heat the plate should help somewhat.
#2 - Find optimal exposure point. Too aggressive will go trough ink and too little will not allow emulsion to wash out...
#3 - Plates are sensitive to a day light and whatever amount of UV rays in light bulbs so they have to be kept face-down.
The advantage is that plate can produce 100k + that no other Ink-Jet CTPs can't
The matter of fact I had purchased JetPlate 7800 CTP system recently to convert it in to this and sell it.
All the tricky points can be worked around, in my opinion.
It will take me some time as I will treat this experiment as hobby but I will repost on the progress.

 

[OkiTech]

Elvin, New EPSON Ultrachrome K3 inks were presented as something that can withhold the chemical and mechanical wear in theit CTP. Must bee cooked under at least 128C , I think it moves 18 inch plate under heater in 2.5-3 min so you can figure out the speed ...

 

[OkiTech]

Elvin, also - most likely you may not be able to print on just any blank aluminum plate with Ink-Jet ink. The plates from Epson CTP/VIM and Glunz and Jensen Platewriters have surface that designed to receive ink and what is interesting that Epson K3 ink does not work on G&J plates... I've tried that already. These are proprietary technologies designed to work in certain way.

 

[Craig]

Our Epson Plate curing unit will do an 13" plate in 7 minutes at 190C... at least that is what was recommended by Epson.

 

[elvin_011]

Hi UnlimitedBT, Craig,

I used a conventional alumunium plate, I exposed it under my platemaker and developed it, so the emulsion was washed away.

I print the blank plate with local ink (not genuine ink) maybe it is not dye-ink, because it dried fast, then I cured it.. I dont have curing unit, so I heated it above fire 40cm(16inch) for 30-60sec

of course the curing process is the weakest at my experiment, so at some area, the result of printing is good, the other was washed away (because it's not cured well yet). the other experiment, I over-cured it, then the result is cloudy print (oxidized?)

I want to do more, can anybody tell me how to make curing unit?

 

[Craig]

You really need to have an even heat source. Look at the used market for a plate curing unit.

 

[elvin_011]

SUCCESSS!!!! IT WORKS....

print on conventional ps plate, with special ink, expose, develop... done

 

[CameronBroadbent]

guys want to need more help i me here.....
_____________________
buy computer | buy software

 

[bobaloo]

YES YOU CAN !!!...
Well done Elvin with perserverance you have achieved a milestone for the limited budget Prepresser, or the remote printer, nowhere near a service engineer.
Using a standard PS plate will take the reliance off the few plate suppliers who may have wash, fountain solution and print run length problems to date.
If you can refine the ink/fluid your'e exposing the plate with, it may be commercially worthwhile, 40-50,000 run ? Can I sign up as a customer?
Im working on a way to ensure registration between plates, though will need much more meditation and testing.

As a parting shot... What thoughts about a Screen Printing Flash Dryer as a plate curing unit?

 

[color_matters]

Very interesting topic, this worked very with us up until now, the procedure is almost the same the only difference is that we are using an "Inkjet CTP Plate" (a PS plate which has a special coating) which is receptive to inkjet inks, we then use Photo Black ink only to print on the plates after which we expose it wash out the special coating and then develop it. We are using an Epson 9800 and a Wasatch SoftRip SP, the quality is great for AM screening up to 175lpi and 21 microns for FM screening using 2nd order stochastic screening.

I find Elvin's way to be more cheaper and much faster, I'll will have to experiment for a while what kind of ink he used

 

[color_matters]

Hi UnlimitedBT, Craig,

I used a conventional alumunium plate, I exposed it under my platemaker and developed it, so the emulsion was washed away.

I print the blank plate with local ink (not genuine ink) maybe it is not dye-ink, because it dried fast, then I cured it.. I dont have curing unit, so I heated it above fire 40cm(16inch) for 30-60sec

of course the curing process is the weakest at my experiment, so at some area, the result of printing is good, the other was washed away (because it's not cured well yet). the other experiment, I over-cured it, then the result is cloudy print (oxidized?)

I want to do more, can anybody tell me how to make curing unit?

Elvin, may i suggest something for your plate curing unit, this is just a suggestion feel free to try it, i saw a turbo oven yesterday and made me think of how that generates certain amount of heat and has a timer, why now used that, it sound a little funny but you see my point right? to even out the distribution of the heat is something i haven't thought of