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GregorieL Below is something that I put together that I provide printers that are considering another competitors ink: Process Ink Testing Considerations There are many reasons a printer may choose to test a competitors product, may it be pricing, curiosity, or just to have an approved back...

The problem could be due to the cyan pigment not being fully dispersed into the ink varnish. Even though you tried a different batch of ink, it's possible the ink company used the same lot of pigment, and there is an issue with that lot of pigment. My recommendation is to try some ink from a...

I'm sure someone will chime in regarding the product. Furthermore, there is nothing wrong with duct fresh /stay open inks, providing they are formulated correctly. Providing that they are formulated correctly, they will save you money in the long run i.e. (No skinned up ink in the can or ends of...

D, You didn't initially say that this job was going to coat. However, with that being said, without seeing the substrate it's printing on, I would recommend phthalo cyan blue (15) and carbazole violet (23). It may be possible to add some neutral black to the formula, stock allowing, to provide...

I have to agree with Mr. Ramirez. I have a few questions: 1. Does the press have enough units where you can utilize the first unit to dust the sheet? 2. Are you running ink designed for board stock i.e. (low or extra low tack)? 3. What are the target densities you are running to? 4. Are the...

After looking at the book, if you want to run the color with a manageable ink film, I would formulate the color using a combination or green & red shade alkali blue. That would give you the strength and shade.

I'm going to put this out here as the problem has me stumped. A sheetfed, oil based ink, print shop is indicating that the rollers in the black units are stained/glazed with a blue cast. The problem doesn't show up immediately, only at the end of the week when the ink is removed, and the press...

Providing your ink films are completely cured, the inks you are using most likely contain polyethylene wax. Most OCE laser printers exceed 400F. The best quality polyethylene wax melts at 325-375F. I would inquire with your ink supplier what wax the ink contains. The formula should either be wax...

Two things: 1. Make sure the ink your using doesn't contain any polyethylene wax. 2. Insure the ink film is completely cured.

Try here: GPA, Specialty Substrate Solutions specializing in pressure sensitive paper, films, digital imaging products and laser labels, with 50 years experience

When you say it's a 4-color solid black, are you referring to it being 400% TAC? Or, is the black a build? Either way, from your description, it sounds like your getting picking on the back up. How long have you let the job sit before backing it up?

@Prepper- Tell your ink supplier to provide you with a Certificate of Quality for each and every batch you receive. Have them include the L*a*b* values. You could also have them provide you with a proof/draw down from each production batch, on a stock of your choosing.

@gordo You are correct, proofing it on the printers actual run stock would be the best. However, when I worked in in-plants, we would have to do this. 50% of the time, primarily in light colors, the color had to re-matched, to a previously printed job, due to the optical brightener content...

All of the QC color labs and in-plant operations that I have managed have the following QC procedures once a standard is established: - All inks must be proofed, following a specific procedure, on a Little Joe proof press. - The ink must be weighed at .015 ounces and applied to the ink roller...

I recommend the M6/PH meter from Myron L. Co. Litho-Kit for Fountain Solution

When was the last time the entire dampening system on this press was completely flushed? Get a good dampening system cleaner, from your fountain solution supplier, and flush the whole system. The goal is to get all of the calcium out of the system. If this doesn't eliminate the problem, it could...

Reyes1377 First, providing the plates you are receiving are indeed correct, use your loupe and take a look at the dot structure. Make sure it's a good solid dot, not mottled from poor ink/water balance, as this will also show up as low dot gain. If the first suggestion isn't the case, have you...

This is future of the printing industry take a look at these two links: Nanography - Landa The Landa Nanographic Printing Process (Official Video) - YouTube

The varnish had better be designed to dry on foil. If you use a standard sheetfed oil based varnish it will leave a oily residue.

Lukew- This would be ideal in a perfect world. The problem is no two presses/press rooms are the same. I have been involved in this type of testing to create the ideal combination. In my experience, once we were able to come up with an ideal combination in a few shops, there were always others...