Pantone+ Plus Reflex Blue C

[D Ink Man]

This is absolutely a PAINT JOB for color display.

How is one to duplicate this within a stable pigment scenario and the delicate films of the great art of lithography?

Please do not double hit me.

Fire away gents.

D

 

[Lukew]

Haven't seen it, is it stronger then the old reflex blue C ?
To hit the reflex blue in the old book without having to push a stupid amount of ink we used a reflex blue that was made for spot colour lay down only and not to be used for mixing PMS colours.
Same goes for 072. The only issue the ink manufacturers always seemed to have trouble getting the shade correct.

 

[D Ink Man]

Haven't seen it, is it stronger then the old reflex blue C ?
To hit the reflex blue in the old book without having to push a stupid amount of ink we used a reflex blue that was made for spot colour lay down only and not to be used for mixing PMS colours.
Same goes for 072. The only issue the ink manufacturers always seemed to have trouble getting the shade correct.

Lukew,

I can give you L*a*b* values if you want. Truly it is an absolute disgrace to the industry for which it was made to serve. Belligerence in one word to dbest describe it.

D

 

[Cold]

Even worse is having to match that coatable. Alkali blue for all it's many many faults is a very strong pigment. Trying to duplicate with carbazole and pthalo and explain to the customer why it is so weak in comparison is always a fun excercise.

 

[Bob Peterson]

This is absolutely a PAINT JOB for color display.

How is one to duplicate this within a stable pigment scenario and the delicate films of the great art of lithography?

Please do not double hit me.

Fire away gents.

D

After looking at the book, if you want to run the color with a manageable ink film, I would formulate the color using a combination or green & red shade alkali blue. That would give you the strength and shade.

 

[D Ink Man]

After looking at the book, if you want to run the color with a manageable ink film, I would formulate the color using a combination or green & red shade alkali blue. That would give you the strength and shade.

As I said Bob, I need 'stable pigments', no alkali blue. It is to be coated with either aqueous or ultraviolet coating. Challenging or impossible to say the least, correct sir?

D

 

[gig0]

Your first mistake was not bitch slapping the customer with a firm flat hand. I admire your resistance.



EDIT: I had to add the word 'firm'.

 

[fireplug55]

Get your ink supplier to give you maximum strength and your prepress department should help you with the dot gain that you will have with any screens.

Craftmanship in this industry is going, going and just about gone.

 

[D Ink Man]

Printing solid color. Pre press can help this?

 

[Bob Peterson]

As I said Bob, I need 'stable pigments', no alkali blue. It is to be coated with either aqueous or ultraviolet coating. Challenging or impossible to say the least, correct sir?

D

D,

You didn't initially say that this job was going to coat. However, with that being said, without seeing the substrate it's printing on, I would recommend phthalo cyan blue (15) and carbazole violet (23). It may be possible to add some neutral black to the formula, stock allowing, to provide some false strength. Based on my experience, color matching is commercial and folding carton inplants, that's going to be good as it gets.

Good Luck!