Printing large envelopes on Ryobi 3302M

C

Chris from Belgium

Member
Printing large envelopes on Ryobi 3302M

The 9x12inch envelopes snag/tear on the underside, because the seams are not glued well enough and hook behind a machine part.
Maybe the guides near the paperfeed-drum causes this.
I saw that Richard had the same problem. He mentioned that the guides can be adjusted. Can somebody tell me how?
I hope someone can help me, because it takes a long time to glue back the teared parts.
 
I would lower the head stops. By design they drop to allow the sheet forward and rise up partially which is the cuase of the tail seam tear.
Lower so that in the middle position, they are still below the feed plate.
 
I agree that that is the problem. What I used to do when I had that problem was to create another high spot on the cylinder cam band with some sticky back blanket strips at a position that would lower the stop fingers again as the tail of the envelope went by.

Al
 
I did'nt realise it was the head stops causing this. Hopefully I can adjust it far enough to solve this.
Al Ferrari, if I understand it, you stick a piece of tape on the "cam"-wheel on the outer left side, above where there is already a bump on that wheel.
This cam wheel pushes the upper feed roller down and also the head stop fingers, is that right?
I'll try this the next time I print these envelopes.
Thanks guys for the advice, I appreciate it a lot.
 
Yes, the basic idea is to create a second high spot on that cam band so that the stop fingers (not head stops) are lowered again as the tail of the envelope passes. So this second high spot is created at a location on the cam band approximately an envelope length away from the existing factory high spot. As to the thickness of the material used, note that I did not say tape, I said sticky back blanket, which is much thicker and will require fewer layers to build up the lump. Inquire with your blanket supplier, or do an on line search for "sticky back blanket".

Al
 
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I tought stop fingers and head stops where the same thing, but I have to learn a lot about the parts of the machine.
I have the adhesive rubber blanket so I'll use that.
Thanks
 
Head stops and stop fingers both perform the function of stoping the sheet while it is side guided. But stop fingers act as one unadjustable factory aligned unit, while head stops can be individually aligned front to back (to cock the sheet before it is taken away by either the cylinder grippers or swing arm grippers) and up and down (for different stock thickness). Stop fingers are generally found on small presses 13 inches or less in width, while head stops are found in presses or 20 inches or more in width.

Al
 
The Ryobi 3302 series has 2 flavors 3302H and 3302M. The H has a feature that blocks the upper feed roller in the up position on a double or jam.
I have found this discussion to be interesting and entertaining. If you have ever replaced STOP FINGERS or a lower feed roller on these machines you would understand how they work.
Once the upper feed roller touches down on the lower feed roller to forward paper the stops are pressed down at the same time. That assembly works in Unison. It is very hard to defeat that fact.
Sure you can lower the stops but you risk losing your registration. There is a specific spec on setting the upper feed roller volume and the STOP FINGER height. Once this is set properly you can stick all the stuff you wish to the cam band but once that upper roller touches down the stops, if in proper spec’s will not lower any further.
One factor to consider is the Chrome upper guide plate which has a specific setting that guides the stock into the transfer grippers at the PROPER ANGLE. The guide is adjustable and if not set properly or is bent from jams etc., will cause the stops to stick up just enough to nick or scratch coated paper and ink.
 
With all due respect for you knowledge of how these machines work, it does not seem that you have direct personal experience with the nicking problem that is the subject of this thread, or you would have offered your own solution. Or have you?

This method of creating a second high spot on the cam band to lower the stop fingers as the tail of the envelope passes by has served countless press operators on Multiliths, Hamadas, Ryobis and similar presses for a very long time. It was taught to me by another operator back in the early 70's. It's not my invention.

Moreover the built up second high spot need not be as high or as long as the factory one. The nicking can often be overcome without lowering the elevating frame as much as in the in-feed event. So that although a second push near the end of the envelope is indeed created, experience shows that the potential mis-register you allude to does not occur on the type of work generaly done on these machines.

Al
 
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Yes, if the stop fingers are lowered to the ultimate position the envelop will not be alligned right (crooked/skewed text and wrinkled envelop).
By the way, when printing small envelopes (with front-windows) on the back (flap) the edge of the windows also can get teared. I solved this by printing those ones on my GTO.
Could someone explain to me; what is the meaning of the "H" and "M" behind the 3302?

Chris
 
"Could someone explain to me; what is the meaning of the "H" and "M" behind the 3302?"

You can find that answer yourself with a couple of on-line searches. Try to be more self sufficient.

Al
 
9x12 underside rib tear

9x12 underside rib tear

Hi: If M, the press has a consoul on op side.
As for the tears under the 9x12, If you have a buckle control on the gear side of the table, right at the drum, that circular snatch with the arrows and teeth, needs to be adjusted. wrench to un lock it, and 3mm key will make the guides under the drum open up or close.With the allen key in, you have to crouch and look under the drum to see the 4or 5 curved guides move. You want those curved guides to open wider, because thats where the envelope rib gets snagged.Try a quarter turn, and see if thats enough. Because if they are open too wide, the sheet will go into the machine. Lock the nut, and after the run, you have to adjust it back again.Because bond will not run.wrinkles can also be a probem with that size.
 
Thanks again to all.
It has been very interesting for me.
I need some time to try out all this advice, but I'm sure I can make it run better now.

Regards
Chris
 
Al,
I am very familiar with the 9X12 tear and also on coin envelopes and any other nicking, scratching, mis-registration problems you can throw at me. I will never say I have seen it all before because I never know what the next service call on a 3302 will bring.
If pasting stuff on the cam band works for you than go for it.
I offered 2 solutions, make sure the upper feed roller volume is set to spec when the timing disc is at 0 or if you did the envelope feed enhancement adjustment to the cam band per Ryobi, The disc will read 357-359 degrees. Once that is done adjust the stops to spec.
Check that the chrome guide plate is set to the proper angle, if it is too low or high it will affect how the stops work and may cause nicking. They are easily bent or thrown out of adjustment by paper jams.
Regards and good luck
Al, It has been years since I heard the term elevating frame that is what Multi used to call it. One of techs that work for us had 29 years at Multi and he still calls it that same thing. Cool stuff. You do a great service on this forum.
 
I started printing on an old chute delivery 1250 LW with separate knobs for each form roller. The trick of building a second high spot on the cam band to resolve the nicking problem on catalog envelopes was passed on to me and worked just fine on that press and when I acquired a 3302 many years later, it worked on that press also.

Al
 
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