Safelights

irreality

Active member
I am using the light sensitive Lap-V plates, I was hoping someone could specify a wavelength that is required for the safelights to handle these plates.

Im pretty sure not just any yellow light will do... however My first thought was to have one of those battery powered LED click lights to use while im loading the plates into the cassette.... If i did this ... could i just buy any old yellow LED's and stick them in the click light ?
 
I am using the light sensitive Lap-V plates, I was hoping someone could specify a wavelength that is required for the safelights to handle these plates.
Im pretty sure not just any yellow light will do... however My first thought was to have one of those battery powered LED click lights to use while im loading the plates into the cassette.... If i did this ... could i just buy any old yellow LED's and stick them in the click light ?

You could always try doing a safelight test.

In a completely dark room, take out a plate and place it on a table emulsion side up. Cover about 4" of plate with an opaque card that is taped to the plate. Then completely cover the plate with a second opaque card that crosses the first at a 90 degree angle. Turn on your "safelight". Pull the card back so that about 2" of plate is exposed to the light. After 30 seconds, pull the card back to reveal another 2" of plate. Do this perhaps another 5 times.
The result, in this case, will be a plate that has been exposed for a total of 3 1/2 minutes in 30 second intervals with an area that has not been exposed. Turn off the safelight so that the room is dark again. Remove the cards and process the plate. Comparing the unexposed area along the bottom to the exposed area will show you whether the safelight is indeed safe and for how long it can be exposed before the plate is fogged.
The resulting plate might look something like this:
Plate-1.jpg

On the left is the section of the plate that has been exposed to the safelight the longest. Each strip to the right represents less exposure in 30 second increments.
The bottom area is the area that remained covered during the plate's exposure to the safelight.
In this case, the leftmost area has been exposed for 210 seconds, then 180, 150, 120, 90, 60, and 30 seconds respectively. It shows that this plate can be exposed to this particular safelight for no longer than 30 seconds.

best, gordo

Current topic: The Wayback View – SP Plateless Offset Technology in 2000 (video post)
 
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Absolutely true.
On a side note, you must use Encapsulite G30 if I remember correctly. The G10 is bright yellow for Kodak, G30 is amber for Fuji. Talking from experience pay attention to the overall yellow light brightness, a maximum of two neon tubes wrapped in foil for a medium sized room should suffice and yellow windows not to exceed just a few sqm. No direct sunlight on these windows. If you have a good eyesight you shold be able to read a newspaper easy enough. In the end, a fogging test is a must.
 
safelights

safelights

Get encapsulit YG10 or V50 either will work with lap V. The yg 10 is for lap v only and the VG50 will work for both lap v and Kodak Violet
 
when I bought my first heidelberg prosette

when I bought my first heidelberg prosette

when I bought my first heidelberg prosetter used. In the box of misc items was an old style 2 bulb dark room safe light with the red cover removed. and 2 yellow bug lights installed. like you could buy at walmart. must have worked for them. I never tried it as I had bought the flourescent tube covers before I opened this box.
 

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