Uv ink slinging on a Heidelberg

Good day fellow printers.

I need your help with a problem I am having. We recently got a heidelberg xl 106 8p. We switched it from conventional to led uv. The problem I am having is that on the drive side I am slinging ink. It is transferring onto my transfer jackets and sometimes i have to wash my blankets and impression cylinders up in as little as 2500 sheets. I talked with the ink guy and the water guy numerous times and the only thing we can come up with is that it is the rollers? Currently we have pacesetter rollers and boettcher water pans and forms due to the pacesetters water pans and forms not holding up in the press and we will be swapping everything out for boettcher. I will list the following information so you guys can best assist me.

Toyo ink, prisco ctp 350 fountain solution with a half ounce of alkaless 6000 to help with tinting, rollin uve 4x blanket from prisco, 0.16 packing from tru pack, water temp is 57° rollers are 77°, conductivity currently is 1710 at the end of this week, currently my brix is at 2.5

The solution we are coming up with is the rollers. They are swelling like a mad man is the center so my edges I can't get tight due to massive stripes in the middle. Any suggestions on what would help? Thank you in advance.
 

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You might check the crowning/skewing of your meters. That might be the simple solution to your problem since the biggest issue appears to be a lack of moisture on the drive side of the press. You could also try segregating (they call it de-integrating) the Alcolor unit for awhile and maybe see what that does.
I will have to try that. Right now I have my meters skewed to 7. My trainer and I had started at 6 but I thought it ran better at 7.

Who would you suggest that we try first? I really like the toyo ink. That has dried the best of the couple of inks that we tested.
 
To be precise, UV inks don't "dry", they cure.
How did you evaluate UV Cure? Physical rub test, Chemical resistance.

Are UV lights guarded/shielded so no light (radiation) is striking or "Flashing" the plate and curing there?

Dry-up/catchup, tinting/toning, scumming/sensitivity all look similar (dirty background) but have 3 different causes.
Dry-up/catch up is too little dampening volume. Volume may be uneven if metering is not parallel side to side.
Tinting/toning is too much dampening volume.
Scumming/sensitivity is not a volume issue but a chemistry issue, too little dosage of gum/acid in fountain solution, not enough gum on plate during processing, etc.
 
To be precise, UV inks don't "dry", they cure.
How did you evaluate UV Cure? Physical rub test, Chemical resistance.

Are UV lights guarded/shielded so no light (radiation) is striking or "Flashing" the plate and curing there?

Dry-up/catchup, tinting/toning, scumming/sensitivity all look similar (dirty background) but have 3 different causes.
Dry-up/catch up is too little dampening volume. Volume may be uneven if metering is not parallel side to side.
Tinting/toning is too much dampening volume.
Scumming/sensitivity is not a volume issue but a chemistry issue, too little dosage of gum/acid in fountain solution, not enough gum on plate during processing, etc.
Correct about the curing. My ink man has taught me his thumb trick to see if it is curing.

Yes the uv lamps are shielded to keep any light from hitting the plates.

Thank you for that input. I was not sure what to make of it when I added the alkaless 6000 and saw that it immediately made a difference in the tinting/ toning problem that I had.
 

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