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Do you mean scanner or plate reader?

Are you looking to go UV or conventional?

There’s a lot of reasons why you had job failure. -It cold be the dyne level of the foil applied. If it was too low, the adhesion of the UV coating may be been compromised. -Over exposure of the UV Coating? That would make it brittle and easy to scratch. -Not a flexible UV Coating was used...

https://southasiaplastics.com/toronto-distributor-and-wholesaler-of-plastics-products/alpolic/9-rigid-pvc-film.html 1160 Tapscott Rd, Units 7-10 Scarborough ,ON Canada M1X 1E91 Phone: Tel: (416) 291-3934 Email:[email protected] From their Website: Category: Plastic Sheets Rigid PVC...

US and Japanese ink manufactures typically tack rate the ink K C M Y. Euro inks are generally Mono/Uni-Tack. They have the same ink tack for every color. That said, as long as you maintain C M Y in sequence, you’ll maintain proper traps. Black will only get darker or dirtier by the...

In the Plastic Card (Credit Card and Gift Card) market, printers commonly buy their PVC from Nun Ya Plastics. You might want to check them out. Located in Salt Lake City, UT. www.npcam.com/nj-sc/AAAAA-09.htm Tel. (843) 389 7800

https://www.ctiinks.com/ Chromatic Technologies would be the approriate source. Most ink companies won’t really sell it as the demand just isn’t as popular as it once was. It’s all about volume that you can put on the sheet - the more hits, the better (anticipate 3 hits). Some companies when...

Looks like you’re a blanket converter / supplier. I’m sure you can always buy a blanket from another converter and make your own. Aren’t most Sakurai blankets barred?

I could be wrong but TrueFlow is no longer supported. I think many of the customers that once had this workflow have since transitioned to either Equious, XMF, or some other supported front ends. Good luck.

Thats a very broad and subjective question Sir. What is your process method to ensure that color is where you feel is right? Are you using a scanning device or hand held to measure color? Can you give us a little more information about your shop (equipment, print application, color...

How about roller settings - Ink Form Stripes, Water Form Stripe? Is your oscillation time the same? Or do you even run with your oscillation rollers on? If everything is identical regarding the consumables you use and it’s isolated to 1 machine, compare settings and operator methods.

This specifically would be a good time to implement some G7 curves, specific to each press. This way, you eliminate the investigative work and can produce a predictable piece, regardless of the press.

Few questions - Is this happening with all coatings (gloss, satin, and matte) or just one in compared to another? Have you checked the stripe thickness and verified that you're not overpacked? If you needed a quick fix, clean the blanket the best you can with either coating cleaner or...

Quoted - instead of a dotgain, i get dotloss of -4 to -6 on almost all units running cmyk. For starters, measure the dot on the plate to verify where your starting point is. Is really doesn’t matter whether you start linear or not as your cutback curves are going to be calculated on L*a*b*...

Based on your pictures, the inks are curing on the fount ball. As they are curing on the ball roller, then are collecting debris (cured ink) and creating uneven pressure between the liner, ink keys, and last fount ball. Get the overhead sleeves and get a thicker ink fount liner (.12 or .14mil)...

I personally service A LOT of UV, H-UV, and LED offset shops (everything from high end commercial to packaging) on all types of presses from Heidelbergs, KBA's, Komori, RMGT's. These shops are running process and in and out of PMS colors all day and I don't see that. Where I have seen this...

Quick Questions - Are you running standard Mercury Vapor or LED/HUV inks? Do you have light filter covers over your lights above press? Is the ink demonstrating a "hide" or clumps after some time in the ink fount? Could be the ink's monomer / oligomers are diving into the rubber. That can...

The true and accurate way to measure TVI (Dot Gain) is by knowing what the dot on the plate is first. From there, you can measure your screen tints on the color bar to really know where you're at. Hope this helps!