CTP plate blinding

We are in the process of switching to Fuji's thermal plates that develop on press (Ecomaxx-T plates). The plates are imaged on a Trendsetter 800 III. We previously were using the Thermal Direct plates from Kodak. With the Kodaks we had easy role-ups, but the life of the plates was only around 7000 to 12,000. Magenta was especially bad. With the Fuji plates on our 1999 Mitsubishi 40" 6 color we are having magenta blinding problems after 2 or 3 pulls. We have done calcium cleans, changed units on the press, changed ink manufacturers (Braden Sutphin (Ecoset HT) to Van Son V3). There were no distinguishable differences with any of these changes. Yesterday morning we tried a different series from Braden Sutphin (Millennium) with much better results. And then just as we felt we had solved the problem, the same problem came back and now with all the units (cmyk). The odd thing is that cleaning the plate with the Fuji plate cleaner brings back the image. Only on a rare occasion do we have to remake a plate. Does anyone have similar problems or insights into what the issue may be? There just doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason. We were told that high tack and low tack inks don't run well with these plates, so we thought going to the medium tack was the answer with the millennium. Today we are trying another ink. I'll update later, but if anyone has an inkling (no pun intended) as to where to look, I would appreciate it. Thanks!
 
Funny you should suggest this. The Fuji rep was here yesterday and said he would be sending in a new fountain solution. He described it as a calcium fighting solution with the letters DC in the naming of the product. We'll have it here today. I'll let you know if it's the item you mentioned and if there is any difference. Thanks
 
De-Calcining Fountain Solution

De-Calcining Fountain Solution

Any Updates on usage of the De-Calcining Fountain Solution additive from Fuji?
 
The fountain solution from Fuji never arrived, but we did have on hand an additive that was previously brought in by the rep. Instead of the plain ARS, the new additive (ARS-ML) was used. The results were markedly positive. We were able to bring down the water level nearly 20%. The blinding issue, if that was what it was, is a thing of the past. We plan on using the new fountain solution when it arrives so we can stay ahead of the calcium carbonate buildup.
 
Please update if this keeps working for you

Please update if this keeps working for you

We tried everything under the sun for 8 months with no success, switched to LHPJ plates and have not remade a plate since or had any plate problems. The blinding would come and go, one unit and then the next, had us try different inks, solutions, papers, cleaning out the plate prior to press with 2 or 3 different things and processor, all to no avail, so I'd be really interested if you find a fix. They worked great on our old web press with no problems whatsoever.
 
hasbeen

hasbeen

Try washing up the press with varsol or coal oil. Back off washup blade and then apply a 15% mixture of white vinaegar and warm water, run press for a few moments then apply wash up blade and finish the job.

NOT ALLWAYS - But in a vast majority of cases blinding is caused by certain types of roller wash. In most all cases magenta will be first colour affected. Yellow will follw very closely (but is more difficult to see). Cyan will start to blind a couple of thousand impressions later and blck will be the last to be affective. (pigment strengths).

Anyhow, if wash is the problem life is very simple - change to a better quality roller wash.

Has been
 
we had same problem with TD plates on Magnus 400. there was blinding on some presses after few prints, and on the other presses we had no problem. We tried everything, and in the end problem was dust buildup on laser lens, and plates were underexposed. After we have cleaned the lens it was ok.
 

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