cheers,
I have a 10600UC and service manual - which you need.
It's pretty tough working blind. I do it too but it's wrong and to be seriously avoided as it can lead to other parts being damaged and ink mess and waste as you found out... :-(
I had similar problem, I left print carriage in centre position, off the capping station, when I broke and removed and re-glued one of the top carriage rollers following a head strike on curled canvas media.
So when all reassembled the black had 13 blocked jets. I'm gradually getting them cleaned. Only 3 left... now but they are damn stubborn.
Reading thru the service manual you should have used a cleaning cartridge first and evacuated all the ink from the lines before removing the print head.
Also there are several cleaning routines available in the service manual menu, where-as the operator panel only has one cleaning routine. If the machine goes through the motions and doesn't put out any ink and throws up no errors, aside the lasers nozzle blocked message on startup, over-rideable, then it thinks it's printing. So I would say there is very seriously blocked nozzles in the yellow head. Also the ink in the line to the head could be curdled and not letting the head actually get fresh ink. Of course the head needs to be getting ink, so a good cartridge needs to be getting air pressure and the ink then needs to be getting through the solonoid operated valves on the back of the ink carriage assembly. So in other words the yellow ink solonoid operated needle valve needs to be letting ink past. You can check this by holding the solonoid open with a wedge and sucking ink through the line by attaching a syringe to the line that goes onto the print head - before it connects to the steel line. Disconnect the steel line at the front of the head and suck there - by connecting to the nylon line. I have older mutoh ink lines lying about so I can use them on a syringe etc. Once established that ink is flowing, fill the steel line to the head with ink Use syringe and needle - so there is no unecessary air in the supply line) and reconnect it. Don't forget to remove wedge on ink solonoid valve. If its not wedged open then ink can't flow!!!! If you wish to try to force some ink through the head you could use a small pad of toilet paper under print head at the capping station to show and absorb any ink that flows through. I don't like forcing ink pressure on the back of the head really, so if you choose to do it, keep the pressure lowish - i.e gentle thumb pressure on the syringe is all that should be required.
My first suggestion would be to read the service manual. I have recently had exactly this problem on my Canon 6200 recently and it took a lot of perseverance to get the yellow head printing. I hooked my ink vacuum pump (it came from a closed cartridge refill depot) onto a hose (find or buy one) that fitted into the yellow heads ink inlet and placed the head nozzles into quarter inch of meths in a dish - then I turned on the vacuum pump and sucked the meths thru the yellow head - i.e backwards. What happens in effect is that the rubber balloon damper in the Canon head (all the colours have a balloon damper) evacuates all its contents first into the vac tube and then the flattened vacated balloon transfers the vac to the back of the nozzles. I had visions of ruining the head, however the vac pump is not so strong that i think it could damage the nozzles with the reverse vacuum on them. Anyway, after sucking all the old ink from the yellow head until clean meths came through, I then used a syringe full of meths and forced it gently back down the same yellow head ink inlet. With gentle pressure on the syringe plunger I held the head and watched the underside to see how many of the yellow nozzles were ejecting the meths - i.e. how many were in fact clean. Most in fact looked fine. So then I hooked it back up to the vac pump and sucked some more clean meths thru again - backwards. then I repeated the syringe pressure (forwards) with more clean meths to establish all nozzles were in fact passing meths and therefore clean.
Then I filled the syringe with yellow dye (superfine ex an old Iris electrostatic proofer) and gently fed it into the head while holding the head on it's side so I could see the nozzles - I kept feeding in the yellow dye until no air bubbles came from the head - this was as I had had thoughts that an air pocket may also have been preventing the head pumping properly. Then I wiped the head dry with a toilet paper wad. With the head still full of yellow dye I refitted it into the printer and let it complete the head replacement procedure I had started when I removed the head. After another 3 nozzle check prints, with one cleaning in between, the yellow slowly started to show on the nozzle check print. It was very faint at first but by the third nozzle check it was up to full volume. With no nozzles blocked. Yahoo!!
) I switched it off overnight and did another check the following morning and it now appears to be running fine. $1000 head saved.
So back to your 10600; I'd say again get and read the service manual. Then since you have the head back in the machine, gently force some yellow dye through it with a syringe. I think dye is better as its thinner than pigment, since the colour is steeped and not ground, so therefore it must be thinner, right? Even though .1 micron pigment ink is fine, dye ink is finer. And the finest dye is Iris dye, but any water-based dye should work fine.
Hope this helps. If you want the service manual leave details. It's 29.6mb so it might take some downloading or else it may need to be uploaded and parked at a file holding site for you to DL it??
cheers.
