The term giclée actually has kind of an interesting history, but the short version is that it was originally used when large-format inkjet printing was in its infancy and Nash Productions wanted a term for their prints that sounded more exotic and high-tone than merely inkjet. They settled on giclée, which is basically French for 'to spray' but I have been told more than once can also mean ejaculate.
Anyway, there's no actual definition or standard for what makes a print a giclée print, other than that it be printed on an inkjet printer. And as far as I'm concerned, the term inkjet can stand on its own these days.
That said...
dnoone,
I've got some experience in this as what I do for a living is color management and color workflow consulting and implementation for large and grand format inkjet printers, and I've been at it now for twelve years, and done it all over the world.
So first off understand that what you're trying to be here is a large-format inkjet printer. It doesn't matter whether you're doing fine art, or billboards, or vehicle wraps, or point of purchase displays, or dye-sublimation or whatever...
The process is exactly the same.
You're taking images, either creating them as pixels or capturing them by some reproductive process (converting them to pixels) and then converting those pixels to printing dots which you then print with an inkjet printer.
And in this business, what is key to understand which most people nod their heads at and say they get but I think few actually do, is
profiles are everything.
Bottom line is that every single issue Macmann relates above is a profile issue. A profile issue and nothing else. Every single issue he relates could have been solved with proper profiles.
The way it works is that -- again -- you've got to somehow or another create or reproduce the image you wish to print as pixels (which are the smallest unit of complete color information in a digital file) and then convert those pixels into dots (which are the smallest unit of individual colorant in a printed image.)
And that process is done in a RIP. A RIP converts pixels into dots...
using information in profiles.
So it's the printer profile you're using that tells the printer exactly what dots to create.
Of course there's a good deal that goes into this. In the case of your 9900, you're working with a CMYKOG inkset, plus light cyan, light magenta, light black, and light-light black. (And just as a note, this inkset is perfectly capable of producing stunning and absolutely neutral black and white images; it's just a question of proper profiling.)
And the first component is inking itself. Inking issues always come down to: Ink splits (between light colors and dark colors in individual channels); single channel ink limits; linearization; and multi-channel ink limits.
These are dynamic and will vary from media to media, but setting them to best advantage is the key to getting the best out of the machine on every media you use.
And they're always there and always set by some one for some purpose.
You can, of course, not use a RIP at all and just print to the machine from, say, Photoshop; but when you do all of the inking settings are baked into whatever front panel setting you use in the machine, and they may or may not be the best possible inking configuration for the media you're using or the result you're trying to achieve.
Or you can use a "RIP" such as Colorburst Overdrive which only uses the onboard settings and doesn't give you inking controls.
But if you do, you're also not going to get the best out of your printer on every media in every situation.
These days, the RIP's that most people use in this industry by far are ONYX, Caldera, and Fiery XF. All to one degree or another allow creation of media profiles that allow the profile-maker to tune the inking to the media and to the desired result.
I like ONYX; I like Caldera; I'm not a huge Fiery fan but I understand why some people are.
Myself, with my Canon iPF8400, when printing for my own personal use or friends and family I use ONYX. I use it because it gives me the most complete and comprehensive set of inking controls of any RIP out there.
There's more, of course. A lot more. This is just a tiny scratch on the surface. I haven't even mentioned that there are 27 different ICC profile-making engines out there; that no two of them are the same and that a lot of them suck; and that what most people blame on RIP's is the fault of the RIP at all, it's the fault of profiles.
In fact, what I'd bottom line put out to you is that while rule number 1 in the industry is
profiles are everything, rule number two is
you can't learn it on the Internet.
There's just too much to getting it all right, too much bad information out there, and as a newbie, you don't know the good information from the bad; and all the while you're testing, trying, and learning, you're burning time, materials, clients, and money.
If you're really serous about being in business and getting it right and the best it can possibly be the first time, you'll save money in the long run by hiring me to come set it all up for you. And that's pretty much a guaranteed fact.
Mike Adams
Correct Color