Help Calibrating a DPM 2340

[Brett S]

I am looking for help in calibrating our DPM 2340- our press is an AB Dick QP 25 with a T-head.
Our calibration settings were wiped out and went back to the default settings.
Presstek wants about $1000 to do the calibration with a densitometer. Any thoughts?

 

[DanB]

I am looking for help in calibrating our DPM 2340- our press is an AB Dick QP 25 with a T-head.
Our calibration settings were wiped out and went back to the default settings.
Presstek wants about $1000 to do the calibration with a densitometer. Any thoughts?

Check your owners manual or operations manual for instructions. There should be test targets within the software to use.

After you restore the settings, back them up.

 

[cymk]

Brett,
DanB gave you good advice. The Coarse and Fine settings for what you need are in the Op Manual. It is no big deal to set these values by eye. It beats letting Presstek pick your pocket for $1000 when it is something they could guide you thru over the phone or via email for the sake of customer relations.
Even a full rip restore is easy. With page set ups etc. Another printer on this forum could probably help you also as the QP25 is the same as a 9800 or 9900 press with a few enhancements.
DanB also said one important thing: Backup your settings on a flash drive or other source. Most of the rip files you need are config files. Make sure you can view hidden files.
LOL $1000, did they try to sell you 75DI to replace your equipment?
CYMK

 

[Brett S]

Thanks for the help guys, we are digging through the manual right now. Looks like it will be trial and error with testing plates on press.
Other thoughts on our DPM 2340- which is from 1999/2000 with the original Printer RIP. In addition to the calibration they are trying to sell us on changing the gears and rollers AND the upgraded RIP. Total ticket for all of that is about $5800-6000.
The gears are to resolve banding on the plates that are supposedly caused by the gears slipping- or as they call it gear chatter (?). The rollers are to fix a stall line that is appearing and to help with some plate durability issues. The solids (MOST solids- fine lines and small fonts do not hold up) hold up on press but the screens are breaking down in 5000 impressions or less.
Is it possible that the above items could fix a durability issue? Presstek seems to think that the calibration will clean up our dot (current dot is not a perfect circle) and allow us to print better screens.
Thoughts?
I am about ready to scrap the DPM and buy a used Xante Ripit 300 from 2003 for about $10-11K.

 

[KimSaks]

Calibrating a DPM

Calibrating a DPM

Wise choice.... Dump the 2340 and get the RipIt 300.
The calibration that you're trying to accomplish with your 2340 for $$$ to Presstek is easily accomplished on the RipIt by the operator in about 20 minutes.
If you need help in locating or choosing a RipIt system give me a call or write me an e-mail, I know where there are a number of good deals available.
Kim

ph... 702-561-5936
e-mail... [email protected]

 

[cymk]

Brett,
Presstek went from $1000 to calibrate density to $6000 to replace gears and rollers? This is a prime example of how dealing with a proprietary company like Presstek can cost you big bucks and that should be considered by future customers of this company.
The 2340 is a great machine and there are many still in service. Banding was a problem but fixed via service updates etc.
Have you looked at Prepress Equipment & Parts | Platesetters | Imagesetters | Bob Weber
There are to many other sources for poly plates for you to look at. Does Presstek still service your press?
CYMK

 

[mustafade]

How?

How?

How do we post a question on this forum?

 

[Richard]

Hi Brett, I currently use that plate maker. I had a Presstek dude help me. We did the calabration.
It should be routine, however, I have not changed the settings and its been over a year. The manual is correct. I will tell you a trick. I'll be honest to say that the software is Harliquin, I don't know which vintage it is, but go to the spot where the box that has the blue dashes that says how many plates are left. Click there, it will take you to the settings boxes. Several dialog boxes about exposure time, plate length, and centering. Idealy, you want to make some tests, and visually see and choose an exposure number. I think I am using 430. What is very important also is that your activator tank is clean. If you have been using this machine, remove the rack and clean the metal sides that are in contact with the imulsion side of the plate. You have to take the rack apart, and use a non abrasive sponge and get the parts to shine without scratches. Otherwise, you will not get a good result. The plate comes in contact with the metal in the activator tank.

 

[prepressing]

Calibration Service $295

Calibration Service $295

Just saw the post and thought we would weigh in. The Harlequin RIP has a built in calibration manager for calibrating your film/plates as well as a section for calibrating the press. If you want to calibrate both you would need to first calibrate the film/plate material then move on to calibrating the press. We can assist with this process (normally $150 for RTI Harlequin RIP users). If you are not using an RTI Harlequin RIP we will assist with the calibration process for $295 and calibrate any output device being driven by the RIP. You can also visit our website and find out more about possibly setting up the calibration yourself.

You can find out more at:
Printing Press Calibration, Calibrating Platesetter CTP, Calibrate Printing Press or Digital Proof Calibration Fingerprint