New guy, AB Dick 360 question(s)

Manuals

Manuals

Yes, there is the original "Operating Instructions" manual for the 350/360 (chute delivery) which I'll be happy to pdf off for you if you'd like.

Additionally on ebay you'll find "Troubleshooting Guide & Repair Manual" for the same presses, a lasered publication but with some good stuff in it, usually around $20.

The complete parts catalog is available in a pdf at AB Dick.

If you'd like to email off list I could sure use another head to bounce things off. I'm running Baseline polyester plates on an HP 5000 printer. Cheers, Michael
[email protected]
 
Re AB 360 problems.

Re AB 360 problems.

Hi Washington Mike
I have run ab Dick 360s since I was a boy and whilst I don't have one now I think they are one of the best presses for a beginner.
To begin with, the copper roller you describing is an aquamatic system. Common in ryobis and iteks as well. Simple to operate but not so great on major solids. Some important points firstly you must engage the aquamatic and get it completely inked before you put any fountain soulution into the machine (very important) secondly you must thouroughly wet any plate you put on the machine (electrostatic, paper, plastic or metal). I used to use a spray bottle on a gentle mist give it a good wet then put it on the press. Also I suspect by your plate coming off comment you are using the straight edge clamp which was fine for the old paper plates but not fine for the new laser plates you are using.
 
new guy ab dick 360 questions

new guy ab dick 360 questions

Hi washington mike
You should invest in a plate punch if you don't have one which will save the plate coming off problem. I als used to spray a bit of that craft store adhesisve apray on the paper and laser plates to get them to stop slipping and get really good registration (nothing will stop them stretching).
Finally I think the problem you are describing relates to roller pressure. if you plate is remaining clean but the edges of the blanket is getting ink build up then it is probably because you plate does not cover the width pf the plate cylinder and the edges are carrying ink across to the blanket. This is not a major problem on short runs but on long runs it will build up and eventually overwhelm the aquamatic system. Ususl symptoms are ink marks on the side of the paper (you will se it as the stack builds up) and ghosty ink coming in from the sides. If this sounds close let me know and I will tell you how to fix it.
good luck
 
Many thanks

Many thanks

Hi Ludo_au: The plate punch has arrived and I'll put it into service in a couple of days. A lot of cleanup was required and I had to fabricate a missing punch for it but it's now serviceable and ready to go. That should correct the plates pulling off the master cylinder though the tail clamp on this particular press could stand being replaced as it's a little out of alignment on the left side. however, I'll give it a try.

I will definitely try the misting bottle before mounting the plate. Yes, I've always waited on filling the fountain until both the copper and other roller are completely inked. Would you suggest a light misting while in operation, or just let the fountain take care of things?

Also, there is the matter of the aquamatic lockout latch which by description must do something that the night latch doesn't do but exactly what I don't know. I'm guessing it should be in the down position?

When etching the plate should the entire plate be etched or just the image area?


Many thanks again for the continued support. Michael
 
re ab 360 lockout latch

re ab 360 lockout latch

Hi Mike
Yes the lock out latch is meant to take the pressure of the top roller at nights. There is a large top oscilating roller down under the fountain rollers It is important to keep pressure of this when not in use because it sits directly down on the top ink form roller so you can't afford to get that roller deformed (you only have two ink form rollers in an AB Dick so you need them to stay the best they can). I found it easiest on a 360 to simply let the pressure off the fountain rollers, apply the ink lock out, and lift the oscilating roller so the end with a hole sits up of the little pin that the hole locates on. I forgot their should be another heavy oscilating roller that you lift up a little and lean it back on the grooves in the arms and it will sit of the small rubber rollers.
 
as to the spraying yes spray the whole plate. You can spray areas of the plate lightly with the sprayer as a temporary measure but remember you have no molleton rollers to pick that up like a heidelberg, hamada or multilith so it will take longer for the ink to recover it full "black black" look.
It is best to let the fountain solution do the job and turn the aquamatic up a bit more.
Is the ink coming onto your page or is it just coming onto the blanket and the edge of the page?
 
Oscillating Rollers

Oscillating Rollers

Ah yes, I've been lifting the two large oscillating rollers out of socket when not in use. The water oscillating roller (the large grey one at the top) sits in a pair of brackets mounted on the frame when not in use and the ink oscillating roller (the large grey one lower down with the guide pins in its ends) I elevate and sort of lean backward on its pins, and I also turn OFF the form rollers (when I remember to, that is :)).

Okay then, I'll try to remember to use the water lock-out latch as well as the night latch when shutting down. For right now (any maybe for the foreseeable future), I've made up a checklist for both startup and shutdown, this until I get that all into the memory cells and it becomes more automatic. A lot of thingamabobs to take care of isn't there? Michael
 
I'll be making another run in the next few days, when I can get back to the project, and will post more as that progresses re: plate/cylinder inking, etc. Thanks again, Michael
 
Hi, I recall this machine, with the copper roller. When inking up, ink all the rollers, including the dampening rollers. Engage the water system and get a thin coating of ink on all the rollers first.
Then put the foutain solution in. Mix the soution as the labal suggests, not more than suggested.
If you use etch, get the plate wet with that first. Put the water control a little over half to start. This is a non-alcohol dampening system. If it was, then the copper roller would be smooth chrome. The copper roller should be inked up.
Richard
 
The CD stands for chain delivery. I don't really think there is a straight 360. A 360 with a chute delivery is generally refered to as an AB Dick 350.
 
RGPW17100 said:
Running these old duplicators especially with a Thead on the back is challeging. There are times I think these guys should be making the big bucks instead of the SM 74 and bigger machine operators. The risk is not as high but the talent level is. Remember the old days with moliten covers when this was an art.
Click to expand...
Thank you for recognizing that sometimes a good operator and a piece of junk is all you need. I have been running Dicks for over 30 years sometimes felt that I was way under paid, we would run anything and everything even 4/4 process! Ahh the good old days, working with my Pop in the late 70's banging students thesis out on a 350 chute to what we do today thinking that was quite a journey.;)

RR
 
Last edited:
Ludo_au said:
Finally I think the problem you are describing relates to roller pressure. if you plate is remaining clean but the edges of the blanket is getting ink build up then it is probably because you plate does not cover the width pf the plate cylinder and the edges are carrying ink across to the blanket. This is not a major problem on short runs but on long runs it will build up and eventually overwhelm the aquamatic system. Ususl symptoms are ink marks on the side of the paper (you will se it as the stack builds up) and ghosty ink coming in from the sides. If this sounds close let me know and I will tell you how to fix it.
good luck
Click to expand...

Hi Ludo_au

I'm a brand new printer using a 360 also. I have worked my way through to making a 90% decent print but I have a lot of questions to get things perfect.

The issue you are describing above is something I need to fix on my press. My plates are 11" wide and my cylinder is 11.125" and I get the edge transfer. I resorted to fastening a shop towel to wipe the edge with fountain solution while it runs. It kept it at bay for a while but I would have to shut down every 500 sheets to clean the blanket.

My other issue is the plate gathers a cloud of tone on the top edge. I was running an 11x17 sheet with the aquamatic turned up to max. It seems to start at the top left corner and if left alone it will spread across the whole top edge. Running at the slowest speed '5' it will come on quickly but if I run fast like '8' it will take some time to come on. That makes me think the plate is drying out and I was having some success dabbing that corner with fountain solution as it whipped by but I am really interested in making this machine perform better.

Any ideas?
 
washingtonmike said:
Good morning: Name is Michael in Iowa, a hobby letterpress printer and moving into offset with an AB Dick 360CD. Had my first successful(?) press run yesterday with Baseline poly plates and HP 5000; this about the fourth or fifth attempt. Many of the usual newbie problems; plate coming off during the run (ink all over the place including impression cylinder which was a b**** to get to and clean), too much/not enough ink, too much/not enough water, etc. Finally, on the last run got a decent (not perfect) impression but plate is picking up a lot of ink outside the image area, ergo transferring to blanket as well. I've been pretty careful about etching only the image part of the plate without much overlap but don't think that's the problem anyway. Going thru Kimwipes like gangbusters. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Michael, Check all your print pressures. Ink Form Rollers, Plate to Blanket, Blanket to Impression. Contact your Printing Supplier for Recommended Fountain Solution. Add Alcohol to it between 10 to 20 Percent and Reduce Water Feed. Try this sure it will help.
 
ab dick 360 chute

ab dick 360 chute

Hi
I'm a new member. I wonder does anyone have or knows where to get
an in depth service manual for an old AB dick 360 chute - the one without
a single control lever and no chain delivery?
thanks
 
Manual

Manual

Hi OG!
do you have a operator / parts manual for the ab dick 380 or 385?
we are trying to take out the blanket cylinder shaft and the brass bush on th N/O side seems to be stuck, how do we take this off?

Thanx
J:confused:
 
idea

idea

The 385 blanket cylinder shaft was put in with lok-tite and is hard but NOT impossible to remove. The Brass you refer too is what drives the press via a cut out in the gear and is housed within a bearing that is bolted to the side frame. It is called a trunion. You can actually remove the cylinder without pulling shaft if need be.
It may be easier to tell me why you wish to remove this?

OG
 
Ab dick 385

Ab dick 385

Hi OG!
The reason we want to remove the shaft is because there is a "play" in the cylinder, which is leaving a blank spot on our print, we cant up the pressures or pack the blanket / or plate because the machine wont go onto impression.....any suggestions?
 
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