Plate developing
- Thread starter Rowenf
- Start date
Hi Tommy.Thanks for the reply. I am using hand developing. I print my image from a lazer printer onto Kimolec. I use Novasharp Bright White Matte (Pearl) Laser Printer film. My plates are 492 x 330 Agfa. I have my own lightbox with a 300 Watt bulb in it. I currently burn my plate for 11 minutes and leave it in the positive developer for aproximately 6 minutes. I do however still get background shadow on the plates. If I burn the plates longer the image washes off. Would you be so kind as to explain to me the developing process so that I can have a better understanding of the process? I have worked for years in the paper industry. My business cam edown with a terrible crash leaving me with nothing. A friend gave me an AB Dick 9840 printer and the lightbox. I operate the printer farely well now and have done some jobs and I can get even more deals, but I have to sort the developing out.
Many thanks for your reply again.
Many thanks for your reply again.
Kimotec
Kimotec
We feel that your density maybe too low and you are having to expose too long. Try this product from Kimotec
From their web site:
The optical density of KIMOLEC PF-90S laser film depends on the laser printer's toner technology. If a higher density is required, the simplest and cheapest method for occasional after treatment is Kimoto's KIMODENS PF-DENS SPRAY. It contains a special agent that refines and homogenises the grain size of the toner. This increases the density value up to 3.5
Spray evenly on the exposed side of the Kimolec PF-90S film from a distance of 30-40cm. The film is ready to be exposed after few minutes drying time.
This may help in buring the plate
What laser printer are you using?
Tom
Kimotec
We feel that your density maybe too low and you are having to expose too long. Try this product from Kimotec
From their web site:
The optical density of KIMOLEC PF-90S laser film depends on the laser printer's toner technology. If a higher density is required, the simplest and cheapest method for occasional after treatment is Kimoto's KIMODENS PF-DENS SPRAY. It contains a special agent that refines and homogenises the grain size of the toner. This increases the density value up to 3.5
Spray evenly on the exposed side of the Kimolec PF-90S film from a distance of 30-40cm. The film is ready to be exposed after few minutes drying time.
This may help in buring the plate
What laser printer are you using?
Tom
VladCanada
Well-known member
And give us more info about plates you use, please (AGFA, positive, and what's the name).
6 minutes of developing - toooooooooooo much!
6 minutes of developing - toooooooooooo much!
Jim-CompuDoc
Well-known member
The plates should develop almost instantly.
Use a scrungy pad (hard backed with a handle) soaked in developer to lightly scrub them, the coating should come right off.
danremaley
Well-known member
I'll assume that your using POSITIVE films to burn your plates. The correct exposure is 6 to 8 microns on a UGRA scale. You may need to make a (protection) "mask" of the image area and expose the plate a second time to clear out the background.
Negative plates should develop with no background left behind.
Your "light box" should have a vacuum pump on it.
"Google me" for more info or email me. . .hope this helps.
Dan
Hi guys
Taking all the advise into account, I experimented some more and discovered that my exposure time might be to short. I lenthened it slightly with another minute and got better results. I checke also on the developing time and halved that. I think that the secret lies between the exposure lenght and developing time. I also used Tom's advise and baught a Kimo enhancer. This could alo have attributed to the better results.
I will experiment some and leave the results on here. Maybe there are other guys who can also benefit from it.
Many thanks.
Rowen
Taking all the advise into account, I experimented some more and discovered that my exposure time might be to short. I lenthened it slightly with another minute and got better results. I checke also on the developing time and halved that. I think that the secret lies between the exposure lenght and developing time. I also used Tom's advise and baught a Kimo enhancer. This could alo have attributed to the better results.
I will experiment some and leave the results on here. Maybe there are other guys who can also benefit from it.
Many thanks.
Rowen
Plate Exposure:
Plate Exposure:
Hi, there. I still can remember exposing plates with film negatives. If you have negative grayscale, it can help. If not try this elementary approach: cover your metal plate with a solid black film and make "steps" at 15 seconds interval. Make the same process but this time do it with a 15% screen at the same 15 seconds intervals and "steps".
After developing, inspect with a loupe. Pick a range that you think is reproducible by your press. Make a one good exposure from out of the range that you pick. Hopefully, it will be right (in terms of dots) and your background "tinting" is eliminated. I suppose you are using negative "subtrative" plates. My 5 cents.
Plate Exposure:
Hi, there. I still can remember exposing plates with film negatives. If you have negative grayscale, it can help. If not try this elementary approach: cover your metal plate with a solid black film and make "steps" at 15 seconds interval. Make the same process but this time do it with a 15% screen at the same 15 seconds intervals and "steps".
After developing, inspect with a loupe. Pick a range that you think is reproducible by your press. Make a one good exposure from out of the range that you pick. Hopefully, it will be right (in terms of dots) and your background "tinting" is eliminated. I suppose you are using negative "subtrative" plates. My 5 cents.
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