Varnish Over Toner

ColorMonkey,

You are saying if you run say 200-300% TIC (processed black) in an area and then coat with UV you can take a coin / finger nail and not scratch UV off?


BTW, I just noticed were neighbors. I'm in PDX.
 
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It will scar it however not actually remove the coating. It is a very durable finish. So we also score which has no negative effect and I mentioned we perfect bind. So I say that because the scores the pb machine creates is well,l somewhat of a knife score. It does have a bead but if you have ever run a letterpress with matrix, the score is not necessarily "proper". Personally I would expect it to crack so to remedy the pressure will get adj. for the respective substrate. Even with what I call a not proper score the UV does not chip or crack. So durable finish and also somewhat pliable.

BTW Hey neighbor! Good to hear we have some NW printers in here!
 
Does it scar where there is no toner? I don't think I've ever seen this unless the UV coating is really thick. Is the UV varnish designed for the Ricoh engine?
 
So the scaring I am talking about is if you apply a lot of pressure. I mean when I say scar I mean I could essentially scar toner as well. The description I gave about the scoring really says a lot though. I mean again, if you scratch hard enough you can scar toner so.

Uhm so as far as thickness, I used to run offset and it is a bit thicker than running aqueous and the viscosity lends to that. No it is not tied into Ricoh in any way. Actually the reason we ended up getting the second heat lamp to flash was not due to the Ricohs (900, 901 651 or 7110) it was due to the waxy additive that the Konica 650 toner had.Before getting the second heat lamp, we would get what you described as well as others, cracking/flaking. The Ricohs however seemed to do okay from the start from a single lamp.
 
BTW TPMAR I thought Ricoh came out with an inline UV solution have you looked into this? Not sure how well it works or if they followed through with it but if they did that might be a solution for you.



There is a tec lighting one can be inline.
 
Ah maybe that's the one I saw in the demo room. We weren't there for that so I didn't give it a thought heck maybe just heard them mention it. Any pos/neg feedback on that msaeger?

I would think if they are offering that it probably works fairly well, you would guess anyways.
 
Ah maybe that's the one I saw in the demo room. We weren't there for that so I didn't give it a thought heck maybe just heard them mention it. Any pos/neg feedback on that msaeger?

I would think if they are offering that it probably works fairly well, you would guess anyways.

Sorry I have not had anyone get one so I don't really have any experience all of the install and service is not done by us I think tec lighting does it.
 
Think I found a solution for this problem. I've been using Actega chemistry with my Morgana Digi-Coater, the gloss I was using was DUV-9021A. Worked fine with my Indigo inks but terrible with my ProC9100 toner. Got some new stuff from Actega, this one is DUV-9058DG and as you can see in the attached pic, even on that massive coverage, it worked great! I can dig my fingernail into it and dent the paper with not even a scratch in the coating. Also fracturing is next to none when trimming. The only drawback is that I normally run my coater at a speed of 60, and at that speed this stuff still scratches off pretty easy. Backed the speed down to 40 and this stuff worked great. Hopefully this will be of help.
 

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That's awesome tpmar! Glad you found a solution that works for you. So speed does come into play on ours as well. Gloss UV we run fairly fast but if we run Satin UV we have to slow it way down. The type of stock has an effect as well. The stock of choice for book covers and bc is Tango. It seems to coat well and set hassle free.

Anyways, glad to hear you got your problem resolved.
 
So new to the UV market on digital, we still run older Konica C6501, which is the waxy toner you are talking about. Would you suggest a machine/UV for flood coating post cards, just need a decent coat to protect though the mail. Must have pre-heat and feeder. Looking at the C1100 in the very near future, but right now we run the older machines.
 

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