Digital Prints Cracking

[Happyprinter]

Was curious if anyone has found a good solution to folding digitally printed material and eliminating the cracking problem? This is a problem we have had for awhile. We have tried per scoring, coating etc.. But nothing helps.

 

[[email protected]]

Fixing cracking problem

Fixing cracking problem

Was curious if anyone has found a good solution to folding digitally printed material and eliminating the cracking problem? This is a problem we have had for awhile. We have tried per scoring, coating etc.. But nothing helps.

We purchased a Morgana Digifolder 9 months ago because we got tired of scoring short run brochures on our Heidelberg Windmill. We also wanted faster
production speeds and larger sheet size. We got all we asked for and more. Any weight stock from 70# uncoated text to 130# coated cover runs great. Gatefolds
are particularly easy.

 

[Digital Insight]

You need a digital "creasing" machine

Check around on Ebay.

Should be able to find something "good" for around $3500 - $4000 range.

We run a Duplo.

 

[Ralph65]

check out this page:
Creaser/Perforator Products Center--HUPU HANSWAY

i been using a manual creaser for 3 years now... it's great! get a manual one first... you may not need an automated one. it cost between $150 to $250

 

[Craig]

Floor folder with adjustable slitter shafts and a pair of tri-creasers!

 

[Joe Duffy]

We purchased a Morgana Digifolder 9 months ago because we got tired of scoring short run brochures on our Heidelberg Windmill. We also wanted faster
production speeds and larger sheet size. We got all we asked for and more. Any weight stock from 70# uncoated text to 130# coated cover runs great. Gatefolds
are particularly easy.

+1 on this solution

 

[billyinlasvegas]

We purchased a Morgana Digifolder 9 months ago because we got tired of scoring short run brochures on our Heidelberg Windmill. We also wanted faster
production speeds and larger sheet size. We got all we asked for and more. Any weight stock from 70# uncoated text to 130# coated cover runs great. Gatefolds
are particularly easy.

Same here we use a Morgana Digifold with our iGen4 and it does a great job regardless of grain direction.

 

[jricart]

You need a "Impact Score" machine, not a "Roll Score" Try the Graphic Wizard Crease Master Plus.

If you want something inexpensive, try the Morgana Docucrease, its a desktop model, hand operated, around $1000.
Kelly Paper and Xpedex have another machine similar to the Docucrease for around $400.

Just my two cents.

JRT

 

[Al Ferrari]

Can you explain why in comparing Impact to Roll Score, one would do a better job than the other?

Al

 

[ketyjomes]

I am also facing the same problem of cracking. Tried many tools and solutions ,but all is in vain

 

[ilovemedia]

Maybe you really need the creasing machine. Most of the time, cracking can be solved through coating. But in your case, none of the traditional methods seem to solve it.

 

[printsnpaints]

A digital creasing machine would be the best solution to your problem considering that coating didn't work for you.

 

[MailGuru]

From Al Ferrari ..... "Can you explain why in comparing Impact to Roll Score, one would do a better job than the other?"

You have to realize that, when you are looking at digital print (especially one with a lot of color coverage), what you are actually looking at is, a kind of melted toner particles (picture a thin film of melted plastic) that has been "cooked" on to your paper. If you bend it, that "plastic" will crack. While we have had a limited amount of success with "creaser" rollers, the problem with a "rolled score" is that the pressure starts on one side of the paper, then rolls to the other side. This rolling causes "un-even" pressure to be apllied across your page at varying locations along your score line. Remeber the "plastic film" image? If you apply un-even pressure to any kind of plastic --- it will crack. An "impact crease" hits your score line all at one time, in the same instant. Now, that score or "crease" in your "plastic film" has not only creased your paper, but, has rendered that line in your "plastic film" much more flexible, while, at the same time "hammering in" the "plastic film" along that line to prevent the cracking.

 

[countmachinery]

We are a US manufacturer of a full line of digital creasers from our manual creaser all the way up to our air feed AccuCreaser. We have been building digital creaseres since 2007 and before that offered the traditional score wheel that did the job just fine until digital started to become more prevalent.

MailGuru is pretty right on as to why a digital print cracks when scored (with a wheel) but not when creased (with a die). When you're trying to score you are basically cutting through toner like a pizza cutter. yes you are making a score, but at the expense of weakening and thinning out the toner, which leads to cracking. Kind of like a boat going through water. You push the "water" to the sides and displace it, which is what happens to the toner. Unlike ink which soaks into and absorbs into paper fibers, toner is laid on top of the paper and it's bond with the paper is therefore not as strong.

There are lots of "digital creasers" on the market now, but the only real solution is a compression crease or a crease being made by an upper and lower die similar to a press. Like MailGuru said the die is working at the same time evenly to create the crease. We are basically, compressing the toner more firmly into the paper as opposed to weakening it's bond. This eliminates the cracking altogether. We have two lower (Female) crease widths that allow for a narrow or wide channel depending on the weight of your stock.

To see our full line-up of machines with information, specs and videos check out the link below:

Count Machinery Co. Machines Page

If you have any other questions feel free to contact us at (760) 443-1697

Thanks,
Frank
Count Machinery Company

 

[jricart]

Creasing (Impact) vs Scoring (Roll)

Traditional rotary scoring machines use circular blades that are in constant motion as the stock passes through them. This creates a ploughing action that actually cuts through the top fibres of the paper or card in order to create a score. Inevitably this weakens the paper and encourages cracking. In contrast, creasing eliminates tearing and, therefore, cracking.

JRT

 

[Craig]

Kinda, Sorta, but no. Only applies when relating to a metal on metal rotary score. The Tri-Creaser will actually out perform an impact score buy stretching the paper fibers. The biggest cause of cracking after the score is scoring in the wrong direction as it relates to the fold.

 

[Al Ferrari]

"The biggest cause of cracking after the score is scoring in the wrong direction as it relates to the fold."

So any scoring or creasing device or element can be used in the wrong direction, including the mentioned Tri-Creaser. Problem is, you didn't explain which is the right direction. Is it from the inside of the fold, or from the outside of the fold?

Al

 

[Craig]

Putting that in to words always gets me, I can draw it easier! It should look like its backwards. The indentation made by the scoring device should push up and out, so the outside of the folded piece will have the male part of the scoring device running over it. Holding the printed piece with the outside facing up, looking at the edge you will see a U shaped score.
Did that even make sense?

 

[arossetti]

The indent should be on the outside, the bulge should be on the inside.

 

[Craig]

Correct! If only I would have said it that way!?!?!?