Yes, for any durability Aqueous requires a varnish/over-lam for protection. Eco-solvet probably not. HP Latex defiantly not. But if you use canvas the is coated for aqueous printer in the Eco-solvet or Latex you will need to varnish/over-lam just protect that delicate aqueous coating. If you use canvas made for solvent printers then you don't really need to varnish.I'm actively looking for a new wide format printer as well. Mainly to provide my clients a wider variety of options than my Canon 8400s offers. Canvas is one of them and that is how I stumbled across this discussion. So I too have a few related thoughts and questions. First, regarding canvas prints, I'm getting mixed messages. Aqueous requires a varnish for protection but I'm being told or it's been suggested that Eco-solvent requires or benefits from a varnish as well. Can this be supported or am I being fed a line? Second question. I'm leaning toward Eco-solvent. I see Epson, Mutoh and Mimaki often mentioned in the forums. But rarely Oce or Roland.
I saw this printer at Print19 and was quite impressed by what it was able to offer in addition to it being solvent. I had a gentlemen approach me and said that he had been using Epson machines for 20+ years do art repro and could not believe how well they run. He can reproduce a job he ran 10 years ago with ease.If you don't want to go aqueous, the absolute hands-down canvas winner currently among commercial-grade latex/solvent printers is the Epson S80600. After that, the HP solvents actually print very well, but they do have serious gamut limitations compared to the Epson.
Couldn't agree more Mike - It takes a certain amount of printing volume to justify going with the S80600 or HP Latex to meet the ROI of the delta between an aqueous Epson/Canon. $18,995 vs $3,995. There is a $0.15 delta in ink cost between solvent/latex and aqueous inks. Plus the coating costs, labor, and time to do so. Plus you have to let the prints sit out and dry after they've been coated. A lot to consider. It takes a lot of dimes and nickels to make up $15,000. If the volume is there, it's really a "no brainer" with how well the S80600 covers the gamut.The reason you should always coat aqueous-printed canvas is that all aqueous media receive ink into a "receptor coat" that is bonded to the surface of the media. The receptor coat has to be there in order to 'receive' the aqueous ink. The inclusion of the receptor coat is also why aqueous media costs more than latex/solvent media.
As some have said, you can get away without coating aqueous canvas prints, but if you do, that means for the life of that print, the receptor coat on that print is still going to be open, and receiving. Not a good idea if you're truly serious about your product.
And if you are truly serious, the best printer for printing canvas there has ever been is the Canon iPFx400 series. It's out of production now but if you want to try and find a used one, you can for not much money.
Next up quality-wise I'd go with the current aqueous Epson Sure Color.
If you don't want to go aqueous, the absolute hands-down canvas winner currently among commercial-grade latex/solvent printers is the Epson S80600. After that, the HP solvents actually print very well, but they do have serious gamut limitations compared to the Epson.
Over the past few years I’ve watched a group of transactional and direct mail printers strategically shift from monochrome toner machines to full-color toner and inkjet presses. Most banished old black-only toner boxes but kept their color toner devices around because they anticipated needing both color inkjet and toner presses to meet customer needs. They were right then and continue to be right today. Because toner and inkjet can be better together. Read the Post