Turnaround times?

spigot

Well-known member
Hi mall im new here.
Currently running a Heidelberg 102, older style perfector 4 colour. Runs molleton covers, but with alcohol recirc, works well. ( 1 Forme Damper)
Im using DSC Acedin d fount, mainly because It runs well, last a long time and i only need 3% addition, and 2% alcohol for all general printing.
The inks are Hyplus from CPI Australia. Its a korean ink, not bad, dries well on gloss with good holdout and trap.

Ok so now you know all that, We have been having issues folding and pressing work, particularly on satin papers. I have tried Satin sealers, however it just seems to take a very long time to dry, but without the sealer all you need to do is glance in the stacks direction and it will scuff.

So what from your experience do you suggest i do to try and increase turnaround? I have No Assisted drying. (IR, Airknife etc)
How long would most people leave 4 colour satin papers to sit before folding and pressing?
How can I establish that my ink is drying within the window? Gloss etc is fine, and i still had the same problem with quickset ink.
Should I load up the varnish with grafo or cobalt?

Any general information appreciated!

thanks
Scott
 
Scott,

My best advice is to get in contact with your ink manufacturer and ask them for help. Companies like Sun Chemical, Flint, and Toyo among others such as distributors like Pitman. They have definitely helped us out before.

While on the more expensive side if you are willing to pay for it the Liberty series ink from Sun Chemical is unique. It can stay open in the press for days but dries almost immediately on the sheet in the delivery. It actually works in reverse in that it needs a lack of air to dry, meaning the top few sheets on your load won't ever dry but the sheets below that dry extremely fast.

We tried it specifically for some matte paper jobs and found good results. (Folding jobs in hours instead of days) In the end we didn't want to switch back and forth based on paper stock nor switch the entire pressroom over to the higher cost ink.
 
Try one of the newer style fountain solutions with a dryer included. The Toyo product is pretty old skool.
We (Fluid Technologies) here in Australia can offer a few options for you if you want. I can help.
The other thing is to make sure you run as dry as possible too.
 
There is no cure to this problem on satin stock unless you have an inline
coater/varnish.
Its something to do with the coating on the paper.
 
Satin paper = Silk ??
If so,, Then yes there is a cure..
not all silk papers are the same, Try a differnet vender,, we have had the same issue a few years back, but with the right ink/fount solution and most of all a good quality silk paper these problems should not exist , only ever you may see some issues with certain deep blues/purple Spot colours with a large solid coverage but cmyk, should see no problems.
 
In most instances the problem is not whether or not the inks is dry the problem usaully is caused by poor rub resistance on these substrates. You can reduce the amount of scuff by using an ink that is high in vegtable oil content / less petroleum. Also, it would be beneficial that the ink contain a blend of polyethylene and teflon waxes. However, you will never completely eliminate scuffing on these types of subtrates with an unprotected ink. The best corse to take would be to use an inline aqueous coating or offline varnish to protect the piece.

I don't recommend adding any cobalt drier to an ink press side. Should you choose to add something to aide in drying I would recommend using either Grafo Drier or Speedy Dry which the later you can obtain from Printers Service.

Bob
 

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