UV ink problems ruining fuser rollers on laser printers
- Thread starter alldees
- Start date
Bob Peterson
Well-known member
Two things:
1. Make sure the ink your using doesn't contain any polyethylene wax.
2. Insure the ink film is completely cured.
1. Make sure the ink your using doesn't contain any polyethylene wax.
2. Insure the ink film is completely cured.
Raymond Ramirez
Well-known member
First...when was the last time you replaced your lamps?
Even though the lamps are on the nanometer of light that is
Needed may be exhausted from the lamps. Don't assume that just
because you see the light that that are working.
Second.... Is this happening on all jobs or jobs with heavy coverage.
Third..... Is your pressmen pushing the ink to get to color. A thicker ink film will not dry all the way through. The top of the film will have a hard crust but the heat from the fuser will cause it to pick off the paper because the ink is not cured at the base of the paper.
1st=Lamps are changed at 1000 hours. Issues were reported with lamps at 200-500 hours.
2nd= jobs that require lasering for our Oce which is new to the mail house. We have success on our older laser machines but it still comes up.
3rd=Sometimes although we have Ink-Save software to cut down on ink consumption.
Is there a device to measure the ink film?
2nd= jobs that require lasering for our Oce which is new to the mail house. We have success on our older laser machines but it still comes up.
3rd=Sometimes although we have Ink-Save software to cut down on ink consumption.
Is there a device to measure the ink film?
Check your lamps and REFLECTORS.
It could be overcure or undercure.
The MEK test is rock solid for determining proper cure of UV ink ink on substrate.
If you would like the exacting procedure on how to perform it, just ask. It is dog nuts simple and 100% effective for detection for proper cure.
Higher melt polyethelenes and PTFE are desirable for non-scratch in your ink formulations.
Consult your ink guy and let me know.
We can do this.
D Ink Man
It could be overcure or undercure.
The MEK test is rock solid for determining proper cure of UV ink ink on substrate.
If you would like the exacting procedure on how to perform it, just ask. It is dog nuts simple and 100% effective for detection for proper cure.
Higher melt polyethelenes and PTFE are desirable for non-scratch in your ink formulations.
Consult your ink guy and let me know.
We can do this.
D Ink Man
All the saturated Q-tip has to break is the top surface of either ink or coating, or even varnish.
1 stroke is a back and forth motion, even & slight pressure. The ideal breakage is "20". If you break in the teens you are undercured. If you going into the thirties or beyond you are overcured.
Throw your scotch tape away and cut your fingernails. You don't need these crude subjective methods any more.
MEK< > Do it every day!<>
D Ink Man
1 stroke is a back and forth motion, even & slight pressure. The ideal breakage is "20". If you break in the teens you are undercured. If you going into the thirties or beyond you are overcured.
Throw your scotch tape away and cut your fingernails. You don't need these crude subjective methods any more.
MEK< > Do it every day!<>
D Ink Man
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