Prepping a File for Perfect Binding

[prepressdork]

Hello everyone,

Does anybody have any documents on how to properly setup a file destined for perfect binding you'd be willing to share?

Happy weekend,
pd

 

[LoganBlade]

I myself would want it built to the final sheet size desired. The prepress area has numbers for building in creep. JUst avoid image crossovers.

 

[Chasfinch]

You first need to find out how much grind you need. We typically set for .25" grind. Creep is generally not an issue with perfect binding its dependent on the job.

Most of the information for grind and rest of layout ( what type of leaves they want) you should get from who is binding the book.
Generally we do 8 page with .25" head trim and .25" grind

 

[Al Ferrari]

ALWAYS consult with the bindery first. That said, here's my 2 cents worth:

.25 inch grind seems like a lot to me. I have always done well with .125 inch grind, both at commercial binderies, and when I had my own Sulby. Aways perforate the spines of signatures headed for perfect binding.

Place partial signatures in between full ones for perfect binding so they are protected, but at the beginning for saddle stitched books so they are on the outside of the gathered book.

Your milage may vary.

Al

 

[DCurry]

I work at a book manufacturer, and we use .125" grindoff, with no ink in the grindoff area so you can design in facing pages spreads and not worry about an image that stops at the gutter needing to bleed into the grindoff.

We don't have any problems with crossovers. While they do require a little more care to ensure the image prints consistently, there's really no reason to avoid them altogether, assuming you are using a reputable vendor.

Totally agree about consulting the bindery first - always good advice to get it straight from the horse's mouth, since different shops have different requirements.

Also agree with setting up your document to the final trim size, making sure to extend bleeds at least .125" past the document edge. If supplying PDF, supply as single pages (not spreads - no need to re-work the document, just uncheck the Spreads button in the export PDF options). Crops marks (or any other printer's marks) are probably not necessary, but if you feel the need to add them, make sure they are offset by an amount that is greater than the bleed amount so that the crop marks don't print in the bleed area.

 

[Al Ferrari]

I work at a book manufacturer, and we use .125" grindoff, with no ink in the grindoff area so you can design in facing pages spreads and not worry about an image that stops at the gutter needing to bleed into the grindoff.

We don't have any problems with crossovers. While they do require a little more care to ensure the image prints consistently, there's really no reason to avoid them altogether, assuming you are using a reputable vendor.

Totally agree about consulting the bindery first - always good advice to get it straight from the horse's mouth, since different shops have different requirements.

Also agree with setting up your document to the final trim size, making sure to extend bleeds at least .125" past the document edge. If supplying PDF, supply as single pages (not spreads - no need to re-work the document, just uncheck the Spreads button in the export PDF options). Crops marks (or any other printer's marks) are probably not necessary, but if you feel the need to add them, make sure they are offset by an amount that is greater than the bleed amount so that the crop marks don't print in the bleed area.

Hi Dan,

I think your first two points need more in-depth presentation and discussion:

1. No bleed into the grind area seems ill advised at first, so we need a reason for that. I believe that the heat generated by the grinding causes a build up of ink mud on the grinding tool, cutting down it's efficiency.

2. The need for very accurate folding needs more than just "a little more care". This is analogous to attempting to produce a bleed job with the image stoping at the trim edge on the outer three sides of the page. The gutter side of the page is just another edge. I believe a compromise is needed for point 1 above. perhaps a very small bleed into the grind area of say .025 inch to cover real world folder variances.

More discussion is welcome on these two points.

Al

 

[Chasfinch]

ALWAYS consult with the bindery first. That said, here's my 2 cents worth:

.25 inch grind seems like a lot to me. I have always done well with .125 inch grind, both at commercial binderies, and when I had my own Sulby. Aways perforate the spines of signatures headed for perfect binding.

Place partial signatures in between full ones for perfect binding so they are protected, but at the beginning for saddle stitched books so they are on the outside of the gathered book.

Your milage may vary.

Al

your right its .125 what is a 1 missing among friends LOL

 

[Prepper]

2. The need for very accurate folding needs more than just "a little more care". This is analogous to attempting to produce a bleed job with the image stoping at the trim edge on the outer three sides of the page. The gutter side of the page is just another edge. I believe a compromise is needed for point 1 above. perhaps a very small bleed into the grind area of say .025 inch to cover real world folder variances.

Al

Good point Al but we've never found it necessary as our perfect bound books don't open up all the way to the gutter unless you're purposely trying to do that and most readers probably aren't. Why did you say earlier to perf spines?

 

[Al Ferrari]

Perfing the spines produces a flatter signature, and a flatter gathered book. Also the perf serves to bring the inner leaves of the signature closer to the outer ones. I am talking about signatures of higher page counts such as 8, 12,16,or 32, and assuming of course that there is a multi unit folder available, as would be the case at a book manufacturer.

Al