Normal packing vs permanent packing

cole

Active member
I am thinking of changing to permanent packing. Is there anything i need to be aware of.
We have it running on our CD74 and it seems to work fine. I would like to get it onto our 105 but feel as if I do not have enough information to make the next step. Any bit of help would be appreciated.
 
Permanent packing works really well. One thing to watch out for is getting moisture under it and developing rust on the cylinders. Every now and then take them off and clean/treat the cylinders to prevent this. Then install new permapacs.
 
Permanent packing saves time when changing plates/blankets but be aware that if you have a bash on the blanket there is less give in permanent packings and your blanket is likely to suffer as a result. Used them for years and they are, what I consider, the preffered method.
 
Perm. packing is the way to go. I use it on all of my presses. Not real keen on using under the blankets, with regular packing under the blankets it allows for more give when running heavy stocks and blankets won't smash as easy.
 
hi there,

we run three sm74s two two colours and a five colour, permo packing is easy to use and a good idear and i remember there being an advantage in dot shape as compared to softer oiled manilla but it was only the advertising guff. I use compressd manilla and have done for years because i like it and its easy to change and if any moisture gets under the blanket edges its noticable in the fit and i have no choice but to change it and as such the cylinder in good order.
Recently i spent a few days on our sm74-2 improving a few issues and decided to remove the permanant packing and once removed i almost died, the damage to the blanket cylinder is unbelevable rust up to 2-3mm high creaping up to three inches in on each edge, after spending ages with wire wool and oil it still does not fit and can only see recovering the cylinder as an option. My advice would be if you have a good workforce who can actually print its a great soulotion but if you have operators instead of printers please steer clear.

Paul
 
thanks but unfortunatly its true as most directors think that the green button is go and the red button is stop and the bits inbetween is automated.

Paul
 
Permapack under plates only.

We have had permapack on plate cylinders for up to 8 years with absolutely no oxidation.

Use paper that has been treated with a non-oxidizing vegetable oil for under the blankets.

I have used the same paper packing under blankets for up to 5 years and have experience no oxidation or damage of any kind.

10 and 15 year old cylinders look as new.

Always use the maximum number of packing sheets.

Example 15 sheets of .002 or 12 sheets of .003. Whatever gives the maximum number of heets required.

For each packing sheet used you have created a vector slip point for radial or rotational energy to dissipate.

Paper gives plastic does not.

You need one of the rotational cylinders to have a little give and take.

This give and take when done properly has no effect on lpi up to 600lpi.

That is all the higher we tested. It seemed pointless to go any further.
 
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1st and 3rd shift are just here for the paycheck, i think. we run permapack and steelback blankets. works pretty good minus the fact we take our plates off by hitting the forms and taking them off in forward. trail edge hits the permapack and ruins it. other than that i'm a huge fan of the permapack. the other presses have to continuisly reglue it and watnot.
 
we started using permapack about 18 months ago on a roland 600 but only under the plates and so far we have had no problems at all, save a lot of messing when changing plates.......
 
permapack under plates but not blankets for me. when installing on plate cylinders make sure they are as clean as possible with all traces of anything oily or greasy removed. then apply as per installation instructions. ive had the same permapacks on the heidy i run for over 3 years with no problems!!!
 

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